should not be caught or stitched to it for the stitches would be objectionable on the right side of the coat.
A YOKE-SHAPED PIECE OF LINING MATERIAL must be used in the back of the coat. It should be six inches deep at the center, and run straight across the shoulders. Turn under its lower edge three-eighths of an inch and stitch it in a narrow hem. Then baste it to the back of the coat at the shoulders and neck, leading its lower edge free.
The shoulder edges of the back yokes should be turned under, and then basted and felled carefully over the shoulder edges of the front lining.
In silk the coat should be finished with French seams. (Page 86.) In a coat of cloth the seams may be pressed open and the edges bound separately with silk seam-binding (Page 88). or they may be bound together, turned to one side, and stitched down flat to the coat. If they are pressed open, they need not be stitched again unless you prefer to stitch them on both sides of the seam. In heavy wash materials the seams can be handled in the same way, using a cotton seam-binding instead of silk. Be sure the binding is shrunken. It should be the same color as the coat. Or, on a linen, cotton repp, etc., you can use the flat-stitched seam. (Chapter 17. page 87.)
The lower edge of the coat should be turned under according to the Dehor or Illustrated Instructions, weighted with lead weights at the seams (Ill. 102), and its raw edge either hemmed or bound.
FUR CLOTH OR FUR
If the coat is made of fur cloth the entire coat should be lined with cambric before the interlining is put in. This cambric re-enforces and strengthen the rather loose weave of the fur cloth. It is also used in fur coats if the pelts are tender and perishable.
COATS FOR GIRLS AND CHILDREN
The principles and general rules for making coats for girls and children are exactly the same as for coals for ladies and misses. They are applied to the simpler form of coat used for girls and children.
CAPES
CAPES are made by the same general principles and rules that are followed in making coats. The effect of a cape is softer than a coat, and in applying the principles keep the idea in mind that the cape should be as soft as required by the design of the cape. It is best to follow the instructions given in the Deltor or Illustrated Instructions with each Butterick cape pattern.
