CHAPTER 17
SEAMS
French Seam—Turned-in French Seam—Fell French Seam—Flat Fell Seam—Lapped Fell Seam—Roll Seam—Plain Seams Pinked—Plain Seams Bound—Joined Seams—Ordinary Tailored Seam—Broad Seam—Cord or Tucked Seam—Welt Seam—Double-Stitched Welt Seam—Open Welt Seam—Slot Seam—Double-Stitch Slot Seam—Strap Seam—Lapped or Imitation Strap Seam—Raw Edge Lapped Seam
Ill. 147. French Seam
A FRENCH SEAM is a double seam used to encase raw seam edges. Baste the two edges evenly together on the right side of the garment, and sew close to the edge. (Ill. 147.) Trim off the ravelings and turn the wrong side of the garment toward you, creasing at the seam. Make the second sewing a sufficient depth to cover the raw edges. (Ill. 147.) This seam is used for thin materials and for dainty garments where it is not desirable to show stitching on the right side. It should be used on edges that are easily turned.
Ill. 148. Turned-in French Seam
A TURNED-IN FRENCH SEAM is used when the lines of a garment are such that this seam is more practical than the regular French seam. It is used on edges that are very much curved, and on edges that have been basted at the finished sewing line and can be finished more easily this way. Make the usual plain seam on the wrong side of the garment.
Ill. 149. Fell French Seam
Turn in both edges of the seam toward each other, turning each side the same amount. (Ill. 148.) Baste the edges together and then stitch them or finish them by top-stitching. (Chapter 16, page 83.)
A FELL FRENCH SEAM is made with
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