222
NOTES AND QUERIES. [12 8. i. MAR. is, me.
Nov. 1, and MontpelJier two days later.
Here the travellers visited the famous Physic
Garden, the churches, and the citadel, and
admired the wide streets and handsome
houses, and then passed on to Ntmes.
At Avignon they were examined by the guard at the gates, and had to give a full account of themselves. Here was an " abun- dance of Jews," all wearing yellow hats, but no Protestant was allowed to dwell in the city or even to stay there for more than eight days. The travellers then made for Marseilles by way of Aries and Aix, but finding " no conveniency " to carry them into Italy by sea, they were obliged to continue their journey by land. Reaching Cannes by way of Brignoles, the travellers rode along the Riviera to Genoa by roads which could scarcely have been worse. Mortoft and his companions toiled painfully as far as Nice, but here they were warned that the roads ahead of them were impassable for horses, and they were forced to proceed with mules, and
" indeed [writes Mortoft] no person alive can imagine tnem to be so bad as they are, for we were forced to climbe up Rocks upon o r Mules Backes all y e way for some 30 leagues together, and such terrible and dangerous wayes wee mett w th al y* it would make y e stoutest man alive to tremble in passing them. It being accounted by all Travellers absolutely the worst way in Europe."
At Munten (Mentone) Mortoft notes the
strange habit of the people, especially the
women,
" who use here and in other parts higher up in the
Countrye great Rowles about their Middles and
other strange attire which to strangers seemes very
rediculous."
At Finaleborgo the travellers were forced to
get a pass from the Governor " at a cost of
one French crown of gold," without which
no stranger was suffered to pass, and on
Dec. 2, much to their relief, they found
themselves at Genoa.
On entering the city their pistols were demanded of them, but they were permitted to retain their swords for three days. They then repaired to the ducal palace, where their names were taken and the necessary bulletin was issued, without which no innkeeper would take them in ; indeed, any host who lodged a guest without production of a bulletin was liable to a fine of 500 crowns of gold. Mortoft and his fellow-travellers seem to have been much impressed by the fine buildings and palaces. They visited the Church of S. Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits, commenced forty years previously and not then finished, as well as the Palace of Prince Doria, the Duke's Palace, and the
gardens. A number of crosses set up in th&
streets excited their curiosity, and upon
inquiry were found to indicate the places
where the victims of the plague, which had
devastated the city two years previously,,
had been buried together by thousands in
pits.
Passing on in the direction of Lucca, they found the country to be very mountainous and covered with snow, and were often in considerable danger, " being forced to clime up y e snowy mountains and slide them downe " upon their horses' backs.
"As we rid along [says Mortoft] wee tooke y e Mountainous People to be like Devils in the shape of Men, every Poore fellow having his dagger by his side and staring and swearing as if they were all Princes, and indeed thinking themselves Princes of those Mountains, which when they see their opportunity they make nothing to inrieh them- selves by y e spoyles of Passengers, where it was told us by those y* went with us to shew us y e way y* in y fc place where we passed, which was up a hugh high Mountaine between two Rockes, that within few yeares there was as much gold and silver taken from Passengers by those Mountainous People as would Load halfe a dozen Mules."
From Borghetto, " a little rotten village in the Mountains," they departed, after " a hard and pittiful lodging," for Lucca, which was reached on Dec. 10. Mortoft describes it as
" one of the Prettyest contrived cittyes in Italy and a free common wealth. Those of the Towne choosing a Duke every two Months, which they bake and carry to the Pallace, where he is not suffered to speake with his wife and ehilderen all y while of his government."* The town was neat and well fortified,
" encompassed with a strong wall and a bank of earth as high as the wall and the breadth of two coaches, forming a fine walk much used by the townsfolk."
At Pisa they found certain English people- from Ligorno hunting in the Grand Duke's Park, and hiring horses they joined the sport,, and the next day proceeded to Florence. Here the well-paved streets and the general beauty of the city pleased them beyond anything else they had seen, and Mortoft's delight is unbounded. " Noe place in the world," he writes, " could invite any stranger more to take up his residence in any place than in this city." Visits were paid to the Duke's Gallery and Palace ; his famous closet of rarities was inspected, together
- Cp. Addison, * Remarks on Several Parts of
Italy/ (1743), p. 313 : " The whole Administration of the Government passes into different hands at the end of every Two Mouths, which is the greatest security imaginable to their Liberty and wonder- fully contributes to the quick dispatch of all publick Affairs." Addison was there 1701-3.
