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CONTENTS.
xxi
PAGE
CHAPTER XXII.
Land in sight—Aspinwall—Negro porters—Negress fruit sellers—Howard hotel and the piano—Train leaves—The road—Farmers' huts—Arrive at Panama—Laziness of inhabitants—Houses and cathedral, all dilapidated—An adroit prestidigitateur—Apathy, laziness, and filth everywhere—Steamer Constitution—Heat excessive—Isle of Pearls—Pearl fishing dangerous—Not slept for three days—the 'squatters' worse than mosquitoes—'B flats'—The steward—Resembles hotel at St. Louis—Dull monotony on ship board—Heat like that of a lead foundry—Air, air, I suffocate!—Episcopal service—New bride appears oftenest where husband is not—Passengers find their level—Singers quarrel—Harmony among musicians impossible—One hour and a half at table—The dinner—Between the courses I go on deck—Geographical dictionary taken for a Bible—Honeymoon and threats of a revolver—Acapulco, Mexico—Take in coal here—Indians and canoes—Bay infested by sharks—The little Indian girl—Bad luck to me—Hermoso cavallero looks like a pin-cushion— Houses, streets, and cathedral—The 'Padre'—The paper above the image of a saint—Ex-votos—Immobility everywhere—The guard house—Questions—Don Diego Alvarez—Louisiana Hotel and its landlord—But one nation, humanity, but one country, the globe—The landlord, an old Frenchman—Recounts all his affairs—What he said of the little prodigy Gottschalk—Recommends his tavern—The thin waiter—Ah! Paris, sir—Discovery, the landlord's wife—The son of Don Juan Alvarez, his wife and daughter—How dressed—Steamer in sight—The 'Golden City'—"Lee has surrendered"—Lincoln has been assassinated—Wilkes Booth—Affecting sight on board the Constitution—Women those who show the least regrets—The judge weeps as if he had lost a father—All the men crushed, overwhelmed—Women's irrational impulses—Men and women compared—The female secessionist—The meeting on board—Presided over by Judge Field of the Supreme Court of the United States—An apostrophe on Lincoln—Hymn of the Republic by the Italian singers—I play my piece 'Union'—Fog—Singular impatience of passengers 349