Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/54

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{{center|PATTERN DRAFTING

INTRODUCTION

Pattern Drafting As Applied to Women's Garment Designing

The most important contribution to the women's garment industry is the system of pattern drafting, or, as sometimes termed, flat designing. It has become recognized as the most practical method for making patterns, because they can be made with greater speed and efficiency.

Draping is regarded as the oldest method of designing. Sketching original styles is another form of designing. Fashion artists express their ideas by sketching new designs for women's garments. These sketches are generally used by pat- tern makers and drapers to create a new line of garments.

The system of pattern drafting or flat designing is widely used now because of the present style silhouette which calls for the close fitting waistline. The garments therefore require a greater use of darts, tucks, etc., for correct fit over the bust and hip. Flat designing is so called because the entire design is planned and developed on drafting paper.

According to the system, a foundation pattern, or, as it is sometimes called, the block pattern, is first made to fit the sample size figure. It is then used as a guide to draft pattern for the new design. Style lines, seams, the darts, tucks, etc.,are planned in accordance with the style. The outlines of the pattern pieces are then traced, seams are allowed, the corresponding edges are notched, and finally, a muslin fitting is made according to the pattern.

The routine of pattern drafting and the manipulation of the foundation pattern is illustrated and outlined in this text book. It clearly demonstrates the process of pattern making from the sketch of the garment to the finished pattern.

This book affords the student every opportunity to study the proportions of the sketched garment and to apply the style lines to the corresponding positions in the draft. To insure success, the student must complete each problem as outlined.

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