Page:Pattern Drafting And Grading (1961).djvu/57

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DRAFT OF FITTED BODICE

(Special Measurement Method)


I.An image should appear at this position in the text. I. CENTER FRONT LENGTH
A to B From back to waist-line. This measurement is taken along center front from the base of the neck to the waist-line.
Draw line from A to B for center front line.
II.An image should appear at this position in the text. II. ACROSS CHEST
A to C About 1/5 of line A and B,
C to D Equals half of width across cheet.
Square a line across C to D; then extend line about 3″.
II.An image should appear at this position in the text. III. FRONT SHOULDER HEIGHT
B to E Equals length from waist to shoulder, at neck.
Tape is parallel to center front line.
IV.An image should appear at this position in the text. IV. FRONT BODY WIDTH
E to F Square a line across
This line equals half of front at shoulder seam.
F to G Square a line down from F to line C-D
V.An image should appear at this position in the text. V. FRONT SHOULDER SLOPE
B to H Equals length from center front waist to shoulder at armhole.
Mark point H somewhere on line F-G for shoulder slope.
VI.An image should appear at this position in the text. VI. FRONT SHOULDER SEAM
H to I Draw a line from H to I locating I somewhere on line E-F.
A to I For front neckline, draw a curved line from A to I, passing 1/2" from crossing of guide lines as illustrated.
VII.An image should appear at this position in the text. VII. FULL FRONT WIDTH
B to J Square a line across at B.
This line equals half of front, measuring across bust to side seam, at armhole.
J to K Square a line up from J to line C-D.
VIII.An image should appear at this position in the text. VIII. SIDE WAIST DEPTH
A to L Equals length from center front at neck to side at waist.
Mark point L somewhere on line J-K.
VIII.An image should appear at this position in the text. IX. SIDE SEAM LENGTH
L to M Draw side seam line.
M to N Square a line across from M to center front.
O to D Square a line up to D.
Continue to the top.
O to P 7/8". Draw a diagonal line.
H to M Draw the armhole from H to D to P to M.
X. FRONT WAISTLINE
R to Q First locate Q at crossing of diagonal lines N to L, and D to B; then square a line across from R to Q.
B to S Equals R to Q less 1/2".
S to T Equals reductions at front waistline.
Make dart by drawing equal length fines from Q to S and Q to T; then connect from T to L.
If measurement across fullest part of bust, is greater than line N to M, cut out dart and slash from Q to U (2" from P). Spread

needed amount at Q, pivoting at U. (This also helps to reduce armhole slightly).

An image should appear at this position in the text.