The diagrams below show how to allow fulness in front for single, double, or triple drape cowl neck, using the dress front (dartless or front dart) foundation as a guide.
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COWL NECK WITH SINGLE DRAPE
Ilustration shows blouse with high neckline drape in front. Neckline is 1″ lower at shoulder.
I
Using the dartless front foundation, draw straight line from a point on shoulder seam, I below neckline, to center front neck. Mark position for drape allowance by drawing a curved line from shoulder to neck, and making section A about 1″ wide at deepest part of curve.
II
First draw squared lines; then slash front between sections A and B, and spread, placing front along the squared line as illustrated. Trace front to waistline only.
III
This diagram shows completed front. Allow seams on all edges but center front.
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COWL NECK WITH DOUBLE DRAPE
Illustration shows blouse with neckline I lower at shoulder, and 4" lower at center front.
I
Use the regular hip-length dress foundation as a guide. Draw a straight line from shoulder to center front for lower neck. Mark positions for drape allowance as shown by dotted lines.
II
Draw squared lines; then slash front between sections A, B and C, and spread for drape allowance, placing front along the squared lines as illustrated. Trace front to waistline only.
III
For best results, front with cowl neck should be cut on the bias of goods.
COWL NECK WITH TRIPLE DRAPE
Use the regular hip length foundation as a guide. Draw line for lower neck, and mark positions for drape allowance in same manner as described above for the cowl neck with double drape.
II
Draw squared lines; then slash front, and spread sections A, B and C before placing front along the squared lines. Make sure that Sections A, and C touch the squared line as illustrated.
{c
Diagram shows front completed.
Seams are to be allowed on all edges but center front.
