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THE TEMPLE OF CHANGU-NARAIN

accessible by means of an offering of a tolah of gold to the god, although the individual thus propitiating his priests is at liberty to introduce to the interior, along with himself, as many other persons as he pleases," an easygoing regulation which might be interpreted according to the extent of the visitor's circle of acquaintances. Part of the pilgrimage consists in climbing the flight of endless steps, but the devotees, accustomed to mountaineering, toil up the steep and broken stairway easily and cheerily. Unrestricted by the regulations of the "purdah," and unoppressed by any gloomy religious observances, the women, decked with flowers and bearing trays of golden blossoms which play such an important part in their sacred ritual, gaily straggle along. By the roadside gardens are maintained, bright with cosmos, marigolds, dahlias, lilies, and chrysanthemums, from which the pilgrim may gather at will his offerings to the gods. As a little family party mounts the winding flight, chatting and laughing, suddenly a hush will fall on them—a suppressed giggle from one of the young girls—