with which the youthful Papuans scampered up and down the steep slopes. Ridge after ridge, each more rugged than the one preceding, was crossed and left behind. Occasionally we caught a glimpse of a distant native village, which was as speedily lost to sight. At length we reached a deserted village at the foot of the range, on the summit of which, perched close to cloudland, we could descry the village in which we were to pass the night. Terrible fellows to feast are these New Guineamen! No sooner were the packs dropped than a fire was lighted, at which a couple of kangaroo rats, caught during the afternoon, were roasted, and a regular banquet was enjoyed. For vegetables there were green Papaw—apples picked from the trees growing around the ruined and deserted huts. A smoke and a "mild quencher" satisfied the civilized members of the party.
Mounting our steeds, we set their faces against the steep path ascending towards the razor-backed hill right before us, leaving our carriers to finish their feast. Our progress was slow, and finally we were compelled to dismount and lead our horses. At length the level summit was reached, and from it we surveyed another magnificent panorama of plain and sea and mountain. The whole extent of Bootless Inlet lay spread out before us like a map. The setting sun threw fantastic shadows across the hillsides, and long shafts of golden light across the level plain stretching to the seashore. On the far horizon we could dimly discern the breakers foaming on the sharper edges of the barrier reef. A little nearer, some picturesque islets, each like a gem set in silver, lay tranquilly on the calm waters; on the left hand lay Tupuselei, and on the right Pyramid Head, the latter bearing almost due west. No fairer or more peaceful scene at that hour could the pen of a poet describe, or the pencil of a painter depict.
By this time the people in the village above us had discerned our approach, and were waiting to welcome us. A crowd of friendly savages, all in puris naturalibus, greeted us with shouts of gladness, and thronged around us with infinite chattering, to lead us to our temporary domicile. The name of this Koiari village is Sadara Makara. It looked as if newly built, and contained about twenty huts of the usual descrip-
