order to alter its raw flavor, a scum will be seen to rise upon the surface; this is carefully removed in the manufacture of Liebig's extract or the preparation of beef-tea for an invalid, but in thus skimming we remove a highly-nutritious constituent—viz., the albumen which has coagulated during the heating. The pure beef-tea, or Extractum Carnis, contains only the creatine, creatinine, the soluble phosphates, the lactic acid, and other non-coagulable saline constituents, that are rather stimulating than nutritious, and which, properly speaking, are not digested at all—i. e., they are not converted into chyme in the stomach, do not pass through the pylorus into the duodenum, etc., but, instead of this, their dilute solution passes, like the water we drink, directly into the blood by endosmosis through the delicate membrane of that marvelous network of microscopic blood-vessels which is spread over the surface of every one of the myriads of little upstanding filaments which, by their aggregation, constitute the villous or velvet coat of the stomach. In some states of prostration, where the blood is insufficiently supplied with these juices, this endosmosis is like pouring new life into the body, but it is not what is required for the normal sustenance of the healthy body.
For ordinary food, all the nutritious constituents should be retained, either in the meat itself, or in its liquid surrounding. Regarding it theoretically, I should demand the retention of the albumen in the meat, and insist upon its remaining there in the condition of tender semi-solidity, corresponding to the white of an egg when perfectly cooked, as described in No. 4. Also that the gelatine and fibrine be softened by sufficient digestion in hot water, and that the saline juices (those constituting beef-tea) be partially extracted. I say "partially," because their complete extraction, as in the case of the macerated mince-meat, would too completely rob the meat of its sapidity. How, then, may these theoretical desiderata be attained?
It is evident from the principles already expounded that cold extraction takes out the albumen, therefore this must be avoided; also that boiling water will harden the albumen to leathery consistence. This may be shown experimentally by subjecting an ordinary beef-steak to the action of boiling water for about half an hour. It will come out in the abominable condition too often obtained by English cooks when they make an attempt at stewing—an unknown art to the majority of them. Such an ill-used morsel defies the efforts of ordinary human jaws, and is curiously curled and distorted. This toughening and curling is a result of the coagulation, hardening, and shrinkage of the albumen, as described in No. 3.
It is evident, therefore, that in stewing, neither cold water nor boiling water should be used, but water at the temperature at which albumen just begins to coagulate—i. e., about 134°, or between this and 160° as the extreme. But here we encounter a serious difficulty. How is the unscientific cook to determine and maintain this tempera-
