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Page:Popular Science Monthly Volume 89.djvu/136

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122

���Popular Science Monthly

A Drainage Kink

��A clever way of bonding joists

Bonding Joists to Brick Walls

THE illustration shows how it is best to bond joists to hollow tile walls in the building of residences. A piece of ^i-m. by 2-in. strap-iron is spiked to the joists as shown. The outward end has a hole bored through it and holds a ^-in. steel rod that is lo ins. long. This rod fits into a groove in the top aide of the tile in the mortar joint.

This scheme makes a solid connection between the floor joists and the hollow tile walls. — W. E. Frudden.

��Emergency Control of Motor

AMETHOD is herewith illustrated for stopping a motor at will from any part of the shop. When the push- button is pressed the circuit is open and the lever will fly back, stopping the motor. A number of these buttons connected in scries may be used, one by each machine. Should anything happen to the operator the button could be pressed and the motor brought to a stop at once. In the construction of the push-button a spring keeps the disk in contact. — Frank Harazim.

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��N the installation of an 8-in. steam

line, using present headers and steam openings in a steel and brick building used for gas-n^aking purposes, it was found that to place the line with least expense and to drain back to the boilers, a i2-in. I-beam was in direct line.

To go over or under the I-beam meant a trapped line and use of a steam trap. To avoid the use of a steam trap and take care of condensation the connection was made as shown below.

An 8-in. line was Installed using 45-degree bends over the 1-Beam and a two-inch drain line underneath the I-Beam. The two-inch line takes care of condensation and gives drainage back to the 8-in. line which in turn drains to boilers. — W. W. Flanders.

��§c5o ^^'S7££L CHANNSL

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��BO/LER ROOM

��BRICK WALL

����Diagram of device for stopping motor from any part 'of shop

��Ingenious arrangement of drainage pipes around an I-beam

A Screwdriver Handle

A SPLIT screwdri\cr handle may be neatly repaired by means of wire and snkicr. Place the end of the split handle in the lathe chuck. The jaws will force the split parts into nearh' their original position. IVlake a slot around the handle wide enough to take four or five turns of wire and deep enough so the wire will be below the surface. If a lathe is not available, the handle may be held in a vise and the slot cut with a knife.

With a hand drill, make a hole near the slot in which to start the wire. The hole should be as nearh' the size of the wire as possible. Wind the wire on tightb-. Holding the end with pliers, cover the wire with solder, forming a solid metal li.md. Smooth the solder with a file, and the screwdriver is as good as new. — B. H. Linnv.

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