��An Easily Made Self-Locking Device for Barn-Doors
��THE drawing sliows a self-locking device that is very useful on barn doors to prevent large animals from entering or leaving the buildings at will.
It permits a full amount of light and air to pass the doorway, and is easily set aside when not needed.
1 1 is made as follows : Chisel a mortise in right-hand door-post 5H "i- long. 1,14 in. wide and 4.H in- deep. Cut a slight vertical groove over the top ii<l in. wide. Then bore a 3'^-in. hole at right angles with the mortise i in. from
��Popular Science Monthly
Round the opposite end of this hard- wood bar to tit the iy2-'m. auger hole in door-post. — Gale Pinckney.
���2J2 in. longer than
��A self-locking bar across the bam door- way to keep the large stock in or out
the top and i}i in. from the front for a pin. Place a wood dog of i-in. oak in the mortise and insert pin through the door-post and into a 9/16-in. hole in the dog, suspending it to swing freely. In the left door-post bore a iH-'"- hole to a depth of i^ in.
Select a bar of hardwood 2 in. h\- 3 in. and cut it the e.\act width of the doorway. At one end make a tenon i in. long by 1I4 in- wide, and nearly the tiiiik- ness of the bar. rounding the two corners a Irille on the up[)er and low- er sides, that it may be c a s i 1 y raised and lowered.
��Two Types of Inexpensive Depth Gages
ONE of the handiest tools for all me- chanics is the depth gage. One can
��easily make a gage that as well as practical.
In the illustration the lower figure shows a sim- ple gage made of 3^ in. steel wire and a small pulley key ; the measur- ing rod is locked by a small thumb screw.
The upper figure is an automatic locking gage of steel or wood, pres- sure on the split ends being required to release it. A small rod is split "J/g of its length, and it is then sprung slightly so that friction is created great enough to hold it in place when in opera- tion. — L. E. Fetter.
����The upper figure shows an automatic locking gage of steel or wood. The lower one is made of steel wire and a pulley key
���The flame is blown up into the pipe heating it evenly for tjic entire length
��Annealing Brass Pipe for Bending
IT is usually necessary in bending brass pipe or tubing to first anneal it to prevent the metal from cracking or breaking.
The customary way is to heat the pipe at the point where the bend is to l)e made Iiy applying the torch to the outside of the [liix-, turning the pipe until it is heated tlioroughly and evenly all around.
A still better method is to place the pipe on an incline and place the torch so that the flame is blown into the end of the pipe. This will heat the pipe ewnly the full Inigth, after w hich it should be dipped in watir. This will gi\e the pipe an even color over its entire length.