It is a good plan to take a sponge or soft brush saturated with water, and remove any adhering bichromate solution from the back of the print while it is drying, and take care not to touch the blackened surface. This will prevent the appearance of insoluble spots in developing. Thoroughly shake the sensitizing solution before using.
Don't put too many sheets in at a time.
If you make a stock solution of bichromate, keep it well corked to prevent evaporation.
Sometimes, in coating the print with the gelatine solution, there is a disposition manifested by it not to adhere on all parts of the surface of the print, but to “creep” off in certain spots. When this happens, there can be no adhesion at those points, between the gelatinous coating and the pictures; consequently, the film, composing the picture, will be torn off from such places, when the rubbered Saxe paper is removed. To avoid this non-adhesion and “creeping,” it is best to coat the prints in a warm room, where the hot gelatine will not chill nor " creep," upon being brought in contact with the surface of the print, as it would do if the print were in a cold apartment.
In preparing the moist paper to place the print upon for the final transfer, first soak it thoroughly in water, and then blot off or press off all that is free.
There is no difficulty whatever, in avoiding blisters in developing the prints; all that is required is, first, that the caoutchouc paper and solution for coating the tissue be prepared with highly volatile solvents (such as rectified benzine, and probably the very lightest of the spirit from petroleum, will answer equally well); any of the less volatile hydrocarbons remaining mixed in small
