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374 THE CORNWALL COAST they never did, though Tennyson visited Cornwall in later years. There was some slight correspon- dence, and an interchange of books ; but the two drifted apart in spirit — perhaps they had never been very near. Tennyson's theology was that of Maurice, whom Hawker came to regard as an arch-enemy of Catholic truth. On one ground they both met in later life — when they chose the subject of the Holy Grail for poetic treatment ; and on this ground the lesser poet beat the greater, as Tennyson himself frankly acknow- ledged. Yet both in their different ways lived near to the spirit that is typified by the Grail ; but the one abode in solitude on his wild Cornish cliffs and the other lived in the blaze of popular fame, visited and loved by the greatest in the land. Who shall say that Hawker's life, after all, was not the nearest to his best ideals ? Morwenstow vicarage is curious for its chimneys, which Hawker himself designed from church-towers in his neighbourhood and at Oxford. The church and vicarage stand in loneliness ; there is no central village at Morwenstow, but the residences are scattered about the swelling downs and high- banked lanes. At the entrance to the graveyard is the lich-gate and mortuary, where many wrecked seamen were taken for burial. Such burials recall the unforgettable incident that oc- curred during the conveyance of one poor mangled body from the shore. " It was dark, and the party of bearers, with the Vicar at their head, were making their way slowly up the cliff by the light of torches and lanterns, when suddenly there arose from the sea three hearty British cheers. A vessel had neared the shore, and the crew, dis- covering by night-glasses what was taking place,