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well as toning down other prominent points which detract from its graceful appearance. As regards the production of harmony and grace in outline, we do not know of anything better to illustrate how this principle is applied than
Hogarths Line of Beauty,
And which may he advantageously introduced to the outline of almost every garment at some part or other. and certainly the principle involved in it is most valuable, as it teams with grace at every part. This is illustrated on plate 24, and it will astonish the student to see how often it recurs in almost every graceful object. Then, again, the question of colour must always occupy an important place in the consideration of every cutter, and may be briefly stated, as all those colours which attract the light, such as white, etc., apparently increase the size of the figure, whilst all dark ones, such as black, etc., have the opposite effect. Patterns of the material also have a great effect; stripes add to the height or width of the figure wearing them, according to the direction in which they run: thus, a stripe running up and down the figure adds to the height, while one with the stripes running across has the opposite effect, viz., adding to the width and detracting from the height, an effect which is anything but desirable. Large checks add to the size of the figure without adding to the height, and are not generally considered suitable for youths. We shall, however, return to this subject again, so we will pass on.
The principles of cutting coats are fully explained by us in Part. 2 of "The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting Board" which treats of all kinds of Body Coats, and as vests are similar to coats it would be superfluous for us to go over them again; trousers also having been treated of fully in the "National Work on Trouser Cutting," Vol. I., we will at once proceed to consider the method of
Taking the Measures.
This should always be done carefully and methodically, for however good a system may he, if the measures are not taken correctly it is a moral impossibility for the garments cut by them to fit, so that too much care cannot be taken in this direction. It should also be borne in mind that most parents desire their children's garments to fit them easily, yet, at the same time, to hang gracefully, and it has always been our custom to find out at the time of measuring the degree of ease desired; it being comparatively easy at this stage to gather your customer's views in this direction, which often vary considerably.
The measures we advise to be taken are as follows:
For Coats.
- 1. The depth of scye at back, which may be obtained as follows: Place the tape over the shoulders, saddle fashion, down in front of both arms, and back under the arms close up to the armpit till they meet in the centre of back, as shown on Figures 3 and 4, at which point make a mark with a piece of pipe clay, as at B, figure 4, care being taken to nee that the tape, in crossing the back, runs neither up nor down, keeping it as nearly as possible level, taking the floor as a guide; measure to be taken from A to B.
- 2. Length from collar seam to natural waist.
- 3. Length from collar seam to full length desired.
- 4. Width across back, with the arm resting at the side, as if taken with the arm raised, it makes the back too wide. Now lift the arm up, carry it well forward, and give it a decided bend at the elbow, after which continue the measure on from
- 5. Centre of back to elbow.
- 6. Centre of hack to hand.
- 7. Now take the width across chest from the front of right scye to front of left scye, E to E, figure 3.
- 8. Length of front shoulder, from collar seam at back to bottom of scye in front, which may be easily obtained by placing the finger under the arm, from A to D.
- 9. From mark made at depth of scye at B, over the shoulder at C, and down in front of arm to the level of scye in front at D. This is the over shoulder measure.
- 10. Size of chest taken fairly close.
- 11. Size of waist taken in the same manner.
- 12. Size of seat taken in the same manner.
Measures 10 and 11 should be taken over the vest only for all kinds of garments, variations being easily made for different styles.
