Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide 1898 Edition Part 1.djvu/40

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are put in about the some position as for other styles, the only difference being that they are rather more to the side. which is necessitated by the overlap. The lest style of Vest we shall notion at this part is

The Sleeve Vest
Dia. 84, Fig. 38,

And although not so often worn by youths, yet as it forms a class by itself, we should have left our work incomplete if it had not been included. The only variation necessary is in the scye motion, which should be made to come as close up to the natural juncture of the arm and body as possible, as no sleeves tit as well as those that are out for a scye in such a position, hence it will be seen the scye is raised a ¹⁄₄, and which extends all round the scye, with the exception of at B, whilst it is increased to ³⁄₈ or ¹⁄₂ an inch at the shoulder, so that the back should measure one-fifth breast from C to D; the sleeve is than produced in the manner previously described for Jackets, but as there are one or two variations, we will repeat

The Sleeve System,
Dia. 65.

Measure across from back at A to front of scye at B and deduct the width of back as at C D, the remainder is used to find the distance O3+¹⁄₂. Now mark the front pitch of the sleeve at ³⁄₄ of an inch above the level of scye and the hindarm to taste. and apply the square with the arms as at B resting on the pattern in the position the sleeve is desired to hung from the scye, this may be altered by shifting the square round, but still keeping either arm at the pitches. The more forward the sleeve in desired to hang, the greater the distance that shows itself at B, and vice versâ. Having obtained this quantity, apply it to the above by coming up as from 3+¹⁄₂ to ¹⁄₄; now measure across the distance between the two pitches, with the hook placed in a closing position at the shoulder, and make ¹⁄₂ to 8+¹⁄₂ agree with this quantity, never less, but rather more, as many of the defects in the fitting of sleeve vests arise from the foot of the sleeves being too small. 4+¹⁄₂ is midway between O and 8+¹⁄₂, and the sleeve head shaped by these points, now measure the distance between the two pitches for the under side, and apply this measure across from 3+¹⁄₂ to 7+¹⁄₂. The underside of sleeve should not be hollowed out below 3+¹⁄₂, in fact it should be rather rounded than hollowed for the undersleeve, for although this undoubtedly detracts from the cleanness of fit at that part, yet it produces ease, and allows the arms to be lifted without feeling a drag on the arm, and as the sleeve vest is fastened All the way down the front, any lack of ease in this direction would produce a considerable strain, and if the rest did not come moderately close up in the scye, the whole vest would be raised bodily. It is a very great mistake to think that ease in the scye (of a sleeved vest at any rate) can be produced by a deep scye, for in the movement of the arms, such as would take place in the wear of a sleeve vest, a deep scye would produce anything but ease, and we should expect to find either the sewing or the material go at that part.

The hind arm of elbow should be got by draw- ing a line at right angle from ¹⁄₂ to ⁸⁄₁₂. and measur- ing forward for the size of sleeve, hollowing the elbow in front, to the amount it is desired to reduce, which in thin case is 1+³⁄₄. The cuff is got in just the opposite way, viz., by squaring down on the other side of sleeve, and making the forearm at cuff to rest on this line, and measuring from it to find the width of cuff. The run of the cuff is got by drawing it at right angles to the elbow and cuff, whilst the lengths are of course fixed by the measure taken, plus the three seams consumed.

The one great point to be avoided in a sleeve vest is a small sleeve head, far away better have too much sleeve head than not enough. In making, the sleeves are generally finished with a hole and button at the cuff, and the lining of the sleeves are much better sewn separately to the outside, and flash-baisted at both sums and put in rather long.

This, we think, concludes our remarks on vests, and from which we think the intelligent cutter should be able to produce any kind of vest, which although only an under-garment, and one that does not force its defects prominently before our notice, yet it is well worthy our careful consideration, and