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Military and Artistic Designs for Little Boys’ Jackets.
Diagrams 94 to 106. Plate 18.
Figs. 42 to 41.
Dealing that with the cutting of these it will only be necessary to point out the special features to be observed, as it is in all other respects produced by the same system as previously described. All that we noted in the remarks on Juveniles apply to these, and as they are generally made to fasten up to the throat it will be necessary to take the size of the neck into consideration, and with that end in view and to facilitate the matter we only make the front length from 3⁄8 to 3⁄4 longer than the front shoulder, making up the size of neck at front, adding on the button-stand in the usual way, with the exception of diagrams 100, 103, and 106, which are all made to fasten with hooks and eyes, and loops of braid or cord over buttons or olivets.
It will be noticed there are two distinct styles of braiding, independent of the cuffs, viz., vertical and horizontal, the former with the design or patterns of braiding running up and down the figure, and in the letter across. The effect of those on different types of Juveniles will be very striking, and the tailor may show a knowledge of artistic effect by the selection he makes for different forms. Diagrams 94, 96, and 97 are especially suitable for the podgy, fat boy, and diagrams 100, 103, and 106 would improve the boy whose tendency is to the tall and thin type. Why this is so we will endeavour to explain. It is a well-known fact that stripes add to the size of the figure (apparently), in whatever direction they run, and as those designs of braiding have a very similar affect by producing a line in the direction the braid is put on. In Diagrams 94, 96, and 97 the most prominent line of trimming running vertically cuts the figure, as it were, into sections and so reduces the width and increases the height, whilst those shown on Diagrams 100, 103, 106, running in the reverse direction, add to the width and contract the height. Of course we are now speaking of the effect produced to eye, as we are apt to look at everything by comparison, and if this has not been demonstrated to our readers let them take 36 inches of material measuring say 40 inches (sideseam), and another 36 inches measuring only 24, and, forgetting the knowledge they both measure 36 inches long, look at them and see which appears the longer. They will soon see the client of the narrower width. In just the same way stripes make the material appear narrow and long, and for this reason stripes are especially suitable for short, stout people, and large and prominent checks for tall and thin people. Light colours or those which attract the light have the effect of apparently increasing the aim, whilst dark colours diminish it. To test this, put a light check coat on a stout man, and then get him to remove it and put a black one on him, and the apparent difference will be surprising. This is where art comes in in fitting, and the sooner tailors make themselves acquainted with a few of its general rules, or, if we may use a paradoxical term, the Science of Art, the sooner will the glaring errors that are daily walking about our streets be avoided.
Ladies have long since acknowledged this fact and put it into practice, hence the beautiful and graceful effect produced in many of their costumes. They certainly adorn the works of God, and the responsibility of taking lessons from them and applying the same to our everyday duties, so that our sex may appear the very embodiment of masculine strength and energy, devolves upon us. Let us awake to a sense of our duty and study our calling, practically. scientifically, and artistically, for it is impossible to attain the highest degree of excellence till we combine the teachings of these phases. We all know that one garment suits us and that another does not, but how few of us can deduce the rules which point us to the course of this effect, much less put them into practice, and advise our customers in their choice of style and materiel. It is a knowledge of such that makes the tailor an artist, and enables him to embody a grace of outline to the seems, to cut the shape of a suit- able style, which, combined with a corresponding material, enable him to clothe his customer in a garment which shall hide all the defects of his figure and bring into prominence every point of beauty. There is in this a study which will make his soul swell with a pride in his calling, and acknowledge that it is indeed noble, a science to be proud of, an
