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THE CUTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE

uniform of the rank and file being provided for them by the Government, and is made for them at the Royal Army Clothing Factory, Pimlico, or by some of the various contractors, who make a speciality of this kind of dress.

The British officer is not of such an erect or square shoulder build as the members of the rank and file, the drill he puts in less exacting, and the labour he has to perform is less heavy, so that he does not develop the muscles of his shoulders or produce so much prominence of chest as those who are under him. Still, it is as well that the cutter should bear in mind that the tendency of most officers is to be more or less erect, and what naturally follows, flat in the back and prominent in the chest. and when this is the case it must be provided for in the cut. Then it has also to be borne in mind that all garments worn with a separate belt need to be cut much closer fitting in the waist than the ordinary garment, but of this we shall deal more particularly when dealing with the garments themselves.

SEALED PATTERENS

Information on any Garment worn by any kind of British Officer may be obtained by personally visiting the War Office, and there the sealed garments for nearly every rank and variety of service may be inspected. This is arranged by Government to facilitate uniformity in the garments of officers, consequently the attendant in charge will, as a rule, do all in his power to give the information necessary, and even allow a rubbing to be taken of any particular section of braiding or embroidery, and all this without fee.

In addition to this the War Office publish from time to time printed details of the regulations, and considering they are not written by tailors, they are fairly explicit, though, in some cases, the meaning is very difficult to comprehend. Particulars of the uniforms worn by Territorial Regiments may generally be obtained from the Commanding Officer of the regiment. The names of these are published in the Official Army List, published monthly by Messrs. Eyre Spottiswoode. Patterns of as few of these garments are deposited at the Royal Army Clothing Department, Grosvenor Road, Pimlico, S.W., where they may be seen by those interested. Applications to view must be made to the Chief Inspector at that establishment.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF DRESS

There are at present three distinct types of dress, the first is the full-dress, which is worn on all occasions of State or ceremony, such as appearing before His Majesty the King, or on such ceremonies as are usually looked upon as requiring full-dress.

The second is a service dress, and it is this, which has undergone so great a change, both in cut, make, and finish. This dress is worn on active service both at home and abroad, and is practically the same for all branches of the Service. The third is the mess dress, which is worn by the officers at mess or dinner, when they all dine together in barracks or elsewhere. This dress has been very greatly simplified, and is now made of practically one pattern with a few variations in detail.

In addition to these three types of dress there is the overcoat, which is of quite a distinct style to what was formerly worn and is neatly as possible the same for all services, a slight adaptation being made for mounted officers.

The garments we describe are as follows:-

  1. Tunic.
  2. Lancers' Tunic.
  3. Doublet.
  4. R.H.A Dress jacket.
  5. D.B. Frock Coat.
  6. S.B. Frock Coat.
  7. Mess Jackets.
  8. Mess Vests.
  9. Patrol Jackets
  10. Frocks
  11. Universal Service Frock
  12. Overcoats
  13. Infantry Trousers
  14. Cavalry Overalls
  15. Pantaloons' Cloth
  16. Pantaloons' Bedford Cord.
  17. Knickers.

RANK

The Officers of the Army differ in rank as follows:-

  • Second Lieutenant is lower than Lieutenant.
  • Lieutenant is lower than Captain.
  • Captain is lower than Major.
  • Major is lower than Lieutenant-Colonel.
  • Lieutenant-Colonel is lower than Colonel.
  • Colonel is lower than Brigadier-General.
  • Brigadier-General is lower than Major-General.
  • Major-General is lower than Lieutenant-General.
  • Lieutenant-General is lower than General.
  • General is lower than Field Marshal.
  • Field Marshal is head of the Army.

Each of these ranks are distinguished by badges as per illustration.

These, interpreted into words, read as follows:-

  • Field Marshal: Crossed batons on a wreath of laurel, with a crown above.
  • General: Crossed sword and baton, with star and crown above.
  • Lieutenant-General: Crossed sword and baton, and crown above
  • Major-General: Crossed sword and baton with star above.
  • Brigadier-General: Crossed sword and baton.