Page:The Cutter's Practical Guide Part 13.djvu/60

and to run squarely all round; "Raglan" shaped sleeves. with a cut taken out on the shoulder; coat lined on shoulder and sleeve only; shoulder straps. The edging' of these: is as follows:

Staff—Two broad stripes of red cloth with ½ serge light.

Cavalry of the line.—Edging, ¼ inch yellow cloth.

Royal Artillery,—¼ inch dark blue cloth; in the centre a loop of scarlet braid from the shoulder seam round the upper end of the button-hole, the sides of the loop ¼ inch apart.

Royal Engineers—as for Royal Artillery, but with colours reversed.

Infantry.—Edging, ¼ inch scarlet cloth.

Army Service Corps.— Edging, ¼ inch white cloth.

Royal Army Medical Corps,—Edging, ¹⁄₆ inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of dull cherry braid.

Army Pay Department—Edging, ¼ inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of yellow braid.

Army Ordinance Department.—Edging ¼ in white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of scarlet braid.

Army Veterinary Department—Edging ¼ inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of maroon braid.

Provost Marshall—Edging, ¼ inch white cloth; loop as for Royal Artillery, but of black braid.

Inspector of Army Schools.—Edging, ¼ inch light blue cloth.

Badges of rank are worn on the shoulder end of the strap.

For mounted officers the coat is cut below the waist, with spring to form 16-inch lap, or 8 inches on from the centre line. The slit at the back should he of suitable length for riding.

THE SYSTEM

Draw line A B. A to D 1 inch. D to F depth of scye. D to E is ½ inch more than half D to F. D to G is natural waist plus ½. A to C ¹⁄₆ of breast plus ¼inch, and up ¼ inch. Draw back neck through C to A. E to H half back, plus ¼ inch. H to I is ¹⁄₆ of breast plus ½ inch, and out 1 inch always. F to J ½ breast plus ½ inch; on to 22, and back from 22 to K ¹⁄₆ breast plus ½ inch. 22 is ½ breast plus 4 inches. Square down from J to waist line, and mark out 3 inches on either side. Drop square 1 inch for spring of back and lorepart. H to M is front shoulder measure less A C. 22 to M is 1 inch more than K M. M to N is ¹⁄₆ breast. N to O is same, plus ½ inch. Draw line of breast, N, through O to 22, and continue by dropping square ½ inch at K, and continuing on to bottom. The dotted lines show the necessary alteration for Cavalry.

WAIST BELT.

THE COLLAR

Draw line O D E. D to E is depth of stand at front; mark in ½ inch. D to O length of collar. O to A is the difference between stand and fall, plus ½ inch. A to B depth of stand behind. B to C the fall.

THE SLEEVE

First draw out an ordinary sleeve. 3 is midway between 1 and:. 3 to 4 is same as M S of forepart, less ½ inch. From 3, sweep from 4, as indicated. From 2. sweep from 4, as indicated. Measure from forearm pitch of forepart to neck point, and make 5, 6, of sleeve, same, plus ½ inch. Hollow ¾ inch as shown. Mark on sweep line from 6, 1 inch, and connect with 3. Mark out from 4 1 inch, and draw to 2, and hollow out ¾ inch.

The cut on the shoulder of the sleeve is covered with a shoulder strap of the same cloth as the garment, edged all round except at the shoulder seam, according to the branch of the Service. attached by an underpiece passed through a loop on the lower part of the shoulder and fastened at the top by a small button which passes through both under piece and shoulder strap; the top of the strap is triangular, the sides being about 1½ inches long, and the button 1 inch from the centre point.

HOUSEHOLD CAVALRY CLOAK

The cloak worn by the Household Cavalry is a very loose fitting S.B. garment made up as follows:—

1st Life Guards—Scarlet cloth, blue cloth collar and cape, rose and chain fastenings, scarlet serge lining to the waist.

2nd Life Guards - Scarlet cloth, with blue cloth cape, rose and chain fastenings, with scarlet cloth collar and scarlet shalloon lining to the waist.

Royal Horse Guards.—Blue cloth with scar-