yet a single chimney. Flat roofs are universal, with their parapets of stone or iron, and their urns with bronze flames. I cannot understand where the fires are, nor what becomes of the smoke. The atmosphere of the city is as clear as crystal. The narrow streets are not paved, and when it rains, as it has done in torrents for a couple of days, immense puddles and holes are the consequence, and when it dries again a great deal of dust. Narrow causeways, scarcely wide enough for two persons to pass, line each side of the street, and along the streets rush about, in all directions, and wind in and out, a sort of huge insect with immense hind legs and a long proboscis, upon which stands a tall black horn, or tower-like elevation, so at least appeared to me at first the Cuban equipages or volantes, which constitute the only kind of Havanna carriage. If, however, you wish to take a clear survey, you will find that they resemble a species of cabriolet, but the two immense wheels are placed behind the body of the carriage, which rests upon springs between the wheels and the horses, and for the most part is supported by them. A postillion, who is always a negro in large projecting riding boots, is mounted upon the horse, which is considerably in advance of the carriage itself. This driver is called calashero, and both he and the horse are sometimes richly caparisoned with silver, often to the value of several thousand dollars. The whole equipage is of an unusual length, and reminds me some of queer kind of harry-long-legs.
When the volante is in great state, or prepared for a longer journey, it has two horses, or even three. The second horse is guided by the hand of the calashero, and runs a little a-head of the first.
When the volante is in great state, you will see two or three Signoras seated in it, always without bonnets, and sometimes with flowers in their hair; bare arms and neck and white dresses, as if attired for a ball. When they are three in number the youngest sits in the middle, a little
