Page:The Industrial Arts of India.djvu/189

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are all untied, and shew in little squares [not in circles] of white, the centres of which are generally hand -pain ted in yellow. This is the simplest of the bandhana patterns In the phal-wadi, or “ flower-garden,” many colours are used First the parts that are to remain white are knotted and the cloth dipped in yellow : then some of the yellow is knotted, and the cloth is dyed scarlet For the border some scarlet parts are tied, and the rest dyed purple.

In the north of Gujarat the favorite color is red, and in Kathiwar, red, combined with deep brown, and yellow. Blue and green in combination with red and yellow are more prevalent in the south of Gujarat, and in the Maratha country. The great distinction — as Mr. George Terry has pointed out in his very interesting chapter on “The Manufactures of Western India” in the Bom bay A dmin 1 st ration Report for 1872-73 —be t w ec n the Gujarat and Maratha races, is in the decoration of their cotton goods, the purely Maratha people seldom wearing printed cotton goods, while the inhabitants of Gujarat prefer them to all others. The only printed stuffs worn by the Marathas are ornamented with metal leaf. Their usual saris and chalk [bodices] are dyed in the thread, and are either made of cotton only or silk and cotton mixed. The decorations consist of borders handsomely wrought in silk, or silk and gold. Blue is the favorite color ; but dark green and purple, and deep crimson, are common enough. Calico-printing is also done at Baroach.

In the collectorate of Nasik, the town of Yeola is famous for its native silk and cotton manufactures, and the finer kinds of cotton stuffs are made also in the town of Nasik ; and at Ahmednagar, Siioiapur, and Kandesh. Gulutgud, in the Kaladgi district of the Maratha country, is known for its saris and cholis. Cotton- spinning and weaving are the commonest occupations in tire Bel gaum collectorate, particularly in the talukas of Parasgad and Sampgaum, Gokak, Chikodi, and Bidi. The total number of weavers Mr, Terry estimates at about 70,000. In the village of