start forthwith, and accordingly made the necessary preparations for my journey with as much secresy as possible. Mohammed Pasha, who from the beginning had shown himself well-disposed towards us, readily provided me with a passport; and at Mr. Rassam's suggestion I procured the following articles to carry in my hand as a present to Mar Shimoon: viz. two pair of red boots, one canister of snuff, 20 lbs. of soap, 20 lbs. of coffee, 20 lbs. of incense, two large scarlet cloaks, several muslin kerchiefs, a quantity of ginger, 50 pipe-bowls, 50 flints, paper, pencils, a telescope, and other small articles. Mrs. Badger also made up a parcel of needles, pins, cottons, tapes, &c. for the Patriarch's favourite sister, and other female relatives of his family.
Feb. 20th, 1843.—Having previously engaged Daood who accompanied Messrs. Ainsworth and Rassam into Coordistan in the summer of 1840, and whose services I found very useful as guide and interpreter among the Coords, we crossed the Tigris in a ferry with our three mules, and at 9 a.m. began our journey from the opposite side. The snows which cover the mountains in the more direct road to Amedia at this season of the year obliged us to take a more circuitous route which lengthened the distance about twenty miles. At 1 p.m. we passed the Chaldean village of Telkèf containing a population of 400 families, who are engaged principally in agricultural pursuits. There are now but two churches[1] in the village, one of which though small contains no less than four confessionals, and the walls are covered with clumsy pictures of saints dressed in the most gaudy apparel. Two priests and two monks from Rabban Hormuzd minister to the spiritual necessities of the people, who are strongly attached to all the superstitions of the church of Rome.
Passing Telkèf on our left we reached Batnaia at 2 p.m. This village also is entirely inhabited by Chaldeans, who have here a church and two priests. Two hours beyond brought us to Tell Iskof where we put up for the night, and where we found Mutran Elîa, the nephew of the late patriarch Mutran Hanna, with whom I had already become acquainted, and whose history has been given in a former chapter.
