CHAPTER III.
Oct. 10th.—We left Tocât at 8 a.m., accompanied by two guards sent with us by the governor, and travelled over a wild and rugged district until we reached a Derbend called Coord Beli. It snowed much all the morning, and our journey was rendered more difficult because Mrs. Badger and I had taken the winter in preference to the summer road, the former being the shorter of the two. We reached the Derbend, which is situated in a mountain pass, at 11 a.m., where we alighted to await the remainder of our party. Here we were welcomed by the guards, who put fresh fuel to the fire round which they were seated, and then busied themselves in drying our cloaks, which were thoroughly wet. The Tatar, who had a good appetite and seldom forgot to carry with him a supply of provisions, had brought a leg of mutton from Tocât slung to his saddle. This was soon artistically cut up, the ramrod of a musket served as a spit, and in a short time we were regaled with a good luncheon of cabâb, and a draught of sour milk, which the guards kept preserved in a bladder, and which when diluted forms an agreeable beverage. The hut was built of logs and mud, and was furnished with a couple of rough stone divans, several pieces of old carpeting, a few cooking utensils, and a bed quilt or two. The room itself was not more than twelve feet square, and yet
