5 — il< -T- ' ■ t -^ Tl 1 T S XX X X X X x'x 4 X XX X XXX X 3 X X XXX X X X 2 XXX X X X X X 1 x>^ XlX XX X X 5 yx X X2< X X X 4 XXX X XXX X 3 X X XXX X X X 2 XXX X XX X X 1 XX XX XX X X WEAVING. 3! 'filling-face' and the latter a 'warp-face' weave as the warp or filling predominates on the face. The next twills are the four harness twills, ^,, i^, which are warp face and filling face weaves respectively, and i,, which is 'even-sided;' the twill used in the diagrams under Fig. 2 is a ^j twill. The twill weave is distinguished by hav- ing a distinct wale, or diagonal pattern, and by changing the number of threads taken up a great variety of twill weaves may be produced. Twill weaves are designated as riyhl 1 wills and left twills, as the diagonal, when traced from the bot- tom of a piece of cloth held lengthwise, leads to the right or left respectively. The twill shown in Fig. 2 is a right twill. By various arrange- ments of the twill weaves, curved twills or w-eaves may be formed instead of plain diagonals. By drawing the warp threads in different ways on the loom- harness fancy weave effects are prodiiced, such as the "herring- bone,' where a sec- tion of right twill and a section of left twill alternate. The third of the primary weaves is the satin iceave ; this produces a smooth-faced fabric anil is distinguished from the twill in that the warp inter- laces with the filling at points distributed over the surface, dif- fering from the step- ping of the twill in wliii-h the stitching follows closely. The simplest satin weave is produced with five har- ness and is used in Fig. 3 to illustrate this class of weaves. An examination of the diagram shows that the stitcliing of the warp-threads to the fill- ing is so distributed that no two intersections are adjacent; and in order to make a smooth surface the warp-threads stitch down to but one filling thread in a repeat of the weave. The weave as shown produces a warp-faced fabric, while the warp, being thrown on the back by be- ing raised above but one filling thread in a re- peat, forms a filling-faced fabric. Satin, sateens, and similar fabrics are produced with the satin weave. Damiisk weaves are combinations usually of warj) and filling-faced satin, the pattern effects being produced by using the warp-faccd satin for the ground and the filling-faced satin for the figures. One very important division of weaving is the prodiiction of fabrics of more than one system of warp and filling. In some instances the extra wnrp or filling is introduced to produce special figured or corded effects; in others to prodiice what is called ilotihlr cloth. True doiililc cloth consists of two sets of warp and filling interlac- ing separately to form a face and a back cloth. 12 345 12 345 5 4mm 4 c ^ : p WS^ 2 ^ - - S " ' ■ TT "^ =; iTF — '- - ' " -^ " , "3 4 E : : : r; 3 c ±1 ; i:
- : : ^
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- 6 WEAVING.
but with occasionally interwoven threads to bind the two cloths into one fabric. There are also fabrics formed with two systems of warp and one filling interlacing with and thrown between them; and others both faces of filling interlacing with a single system of warp, which they cover. Fabrics for men's wear, piques, quill inys, hcd- spreads, tapestries, so called, and other hangings are woven on the double-cloth principle. The weaving of pile fabrics is usually accom- plished by the use of two systems of warp and one of filling so arranged in the loom that small wires are inserted in the .shed under the pile- warp-thrcads to be raised, then these threads are lowered and interlaced with the other warp and filling, and the process repeated, the w'ires being withdrawn after a half dozen or so have been woven in, leaving the pile of loop-pile fabrics, such as Brussels carpet, Turkish or Terr;/ towel- ing, standing: for velvets, plushes, and cut-pile fabrics the rods are often supplied with a knife at one end, so that as they are withdrawn the loop is cut to form the pile, otherwise it is cut by hand. Cordiiro;/, velrcts. rclvctcens. and figured vel- vets are woven on the filling-pile principle by having one sj'stem of warp and two of filling; the ground filling is interlaced closely with the warp, wliile the pile filling is allow'ed to float across several threads of warp at a time and the floats afterwards are cut to form the pile. The fig- ured-pile effects are produced by cutting part of the pile and leaving the balance in loops or a different weave, the contrast between the cut and uncut-pile being marked. Lappet wearing consists of the ornamentation of a faljric b.v the introduction of a special warp which is made to cross small sections of the regular warp and is manipulated by the lappet or needle attachment of the loom in such a man- ner that it is stitched down first on one side then on the other of the figure it is to produce. Swirel weaving is accomplislied by a special attachment described in the article Loom. The surircl introduces a sjiecial filling to form figures on the face of the fabric — usiinlly at a distance one from another — and while the result is simi- lar to that secured by lappet wcaving.much more elaborate effects can be produced, as the warp threads may be manipulated to bind the filling in a weave which, while causing it to predomi- nate on the face of the fabric, does not make it float as in the lappet weave, where the figuring thread is boimd down only at the right and left sides of the figure to be produced, with no inter- mediate stitches. By the use of a tier of shuttles in the swivel attaclimcnt several colors may be introduced in the figure, as when weaving a fabric where the ground may be figured in an all-over pattern of leaves or vines produced by the regular warp and filling, and the flowers are scattered over the surface and blended of two or three different colored threads by the swivel attachment. The great advantage of producing figured effects by lap|iet or swivel weaving over the use of a regular warp or filling is that in the latter the warp or filling floats from figure to figire on the back of the fabric, there being as many floating threads as there are threads in the figure, and these threads must be trimmed off after weaving, causing a great waste of ma- terial, while in the former mode of weaving the
