the chairmen had been paid to take me the whole way through, My servants, however, were nowhere to be seen—they had either gone some other road, or, what was more probable, had intentionally kept out of the way in case of any disturbance. I was now in a dilemma, and did not clearly see my way out of it. Much to my surprise and pleasure, however, another chair was brought me, and I was informed that I was to proceed in it. I now understood how the business had been managed. The innkeeper had intrusted the first bearers with a sum of money sufficient to hire another chair for the second stage of the journey. Part of this sum, however, had been spent by them in tea and tobacco as we came along, and the second bearers could not be induced to take me on for the sum which was left. A brawl now ensued between the two sets of chairmen, which was noisy enough; but as such things are quite common in China, it seemed, fortunately for me, to attract but little notice. The situation in which I was now placed was rather critical, and far from an enviable one. Had it been known that a foreigner was in the very heart of the city of Hang-chow-foo, a mob would have soon collected, and the consequences might have been serious.
Our traveller is at length consigned to a Hong-le—a quiet, comfortable Chinese inn, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Green river. Five or six respectable-looking Chinese merchants were smoking from long bamboo pipes, and discussing the news of the day and the state of the trade. Mr. Fortune took a seat, and, to be neighbour-like, commenced smoking as fast as any of them.
A little incident happened which gave me some uneasiness at the time, but at which I have often had a good laugh since. Preparations began to be made for dinner, and the travellers who were seated around the table arose and wandered about the other parts of the house. It was mid-day, and, as I had eaten no breakfast, I felt rather hungry. In these circumstances it may be thought that the appearance of dinner would have afforded me some pleasure. This, however, was not the case, and for the following reason: I had not eaten with chop-sticks for three years, and I had no confidence in my talents in the use of them. This important circumstance had not struck me before, otherwise I would have practised all the way from Shanghae to Hang-chow, and might have been proficient by this time. As it was, I was quite certain that I should draw the eyes of the Chinamen upon me, for nothing would astonish them so much as a person using the chop-sticks in an awkward manner. I was therefore obliged, reluctantly I confess, to abandon all ideas of a dinner on that day.
Meanwhile the dishes were placed upon the table, and the guests were called by their names, and requested to sit down. "Sing Wa, Sing Wa" (the name I bore amongst the Chinese), "come and sit down to dinner." I felt much inclined to break my resolution and sit down, but prudence came to my aid, and I replied, "No, I thank you, I shall dine by-and-by, when my servants come back." I believe it is common enough for travellers to dine at different hours and in different ways, according to circumstances, so that my refusal did not seem to attract much notice.
The river Tcien-tang-kiang, which Mr. Fortune navigated hence, is fed by three great branches, one of which rises among the green-tea hills of Hwuy-chow, another near to the town of Changshan, on the borders of Kiang-see, and a third on the northern side of the Bohea mountains. Thus all the green and black tea comes down this river on its way to Shanghae, and hence the great mercantile importance of Hang-chow-foo, a city at which, when the treaty is reformed, which is to be the case in a few years hence, permission should be obtained to establish a consular agency.
