marks of volcanic eruption, and after a difficult climb of the extreme and precipitous ridge, gains the level of the plain above mentioned. Though partly under careful cultivation, its surface also bears many signs of the volcanic origin of the country, in the beds of scoria, the deep and perpendicular rifts and barrancas which mark the path of the earthquake, or the combined effects of alternate heat and torrents, and the fearful-looking pits, half full of black water, which are dispersed over it. There was much to remind me of the country about Civita Castellana.
The day came to an end by our arrival at the great Hacienda Zoquital, where we took possession of one of a great range of unfurnished rooms, which, according to the custom of the country, are let at a fixed price for the occupation of travellers, while stabling is furnished for their horses and mules. It is seldom that these night quarters are furnished with windows.
This was one of the most considerable haciendas we had seen; and in truth, its massive walls might have almost stood a siege, and maintained a considerable garrison within their circuit.
Many parties of arrieros were here passing to and from the capital. The attention of all seemed to be a little excited by the fact, that a troop of banditti had been plundering a party that very day on the road between the Hacienda and Real del Monte; and it was quite amusing to see the determination with which loading and priming were carried on the next morning at daybreak in our party in particular, as we were destined to be the first to advance in the direction of the supposed danger. What with guns, horse pistols, and pocket pistols, we calculated the three dons could fire ten shots without reloading for their own share, which was not so much amiss, supposing every shot told. We could not count upon Miguel's blunderbuss, which was quite as likely to hit one of the party as an enemy. As to Espindola, he was perfectly unarmed, and made no secret of his Quaker principles and steady determination not to fight; as he said very coolly, "Why should I, even if I had any-
