the weather was warm and doubtful; and I decided to be down the mountain before the storm came. At 3.25 I left my bivouac in the twilight and started off under the snout of the glacier and up the scree and snow-slopes, reaching the ridge joining Mts. Rogers and Tuppcr, at 4.15. I followed the ridge, keeping as much as possible to the snow, which was in good condition, until nearly at the gap south of the Hermit when 1 took to the rocks for good. Passing the gap, I swung out to the right below the Hermit, and up some ledges to the little chimney whose looks I did not like; and I swung again to the right on a ledge and up the face to a level plateau above the Hermit; and so to the final pitch, reaching the summit at 5.30."
The weather looked more threatening; and after 15 minutes, Mr. Wheeler hurried down by the same route, picking up his stuff at the bivouac and reaching Glacier House exactly at 9.10 a.m. in time to breakfast with Mr. Worsfold who, with Miss Parker, had made the second ascent. Mr. Wheeler's route and the earlier routes were practically the same except that he discarded the chimney. Dr. J. W. A. Hiekson also made the ascent in 1910.
No doubt this will become a stock climb on account of the brilliant rock-work it affords It was long considered an impregnably mountain. Its north side above Tupper Glacier still appears quite too formidable (1911) and remains to be conquered by some daring climber.
Tupper Crest—Name: By the Topographical Survey in relation to Mt. Tupper.
Altitude: 8,563 feet.
Location: Shoulder extending westerly from Mt. Tupper to Swiss Glacier. It is traversed en route from Rogers hut to the summit of Tupper.
First Ascent: By Carl Sulzer in 1890. Except for novices, guides are unnecessary. An easy rock climb with a short stretch of névé.
View: Tupper Crest commands a good view of the south slopes of Rogers Pass.
Tupper Glacier and Névé—Name: By the Topographical Survey, in relation to Mt. Tupper.
Altitude: 6,500-8,500 feet.
Location: Below the north face of Mt. Tupper and drains to Beaver River.
First Ascent: By the Topographical Survey in 1901.
Route: (1) Reached from Rogers hut via Swiss Glacier and Névé. (2) From Bear Creek Station by ascending the watercourse crossing the railway directly south of that point.
Twisted Rock—Name: By the Topographical Survey, from its strangely contorted strata.
Altitude: 9,345 feet.
Location: The terminal point of a spur from Mt. Fox, though really a part of the arête joining it to Mts. Dawson and Selwyn; at the eastern corner of the Dawson Amphitheatre and north-west of the end-wall.
The interior convulsion of the earth that upheaved this rock has caused the sub-strata of which it is composed to twist in an almost
