What a contrast! Ascending in a southerly direction towards the peak upon the precipitous ridge, we perceived at our left, gently sloping forms of wooded green heights, but at our right, peak after peak, black naked prongs, and ice-clad ridges pierced the blue sky, and between right and left stood the mighty mass of Mt. Sir Donald; altogether a picture of peculiarly rare beauty."
Uto Glacier—Name: In relation to Uto Peak.
Altitude: 5,300 feet—8,200 feet.
Location: On the south side of Uto Peak, between it and Mt. Sir Donald; and drains easterly to Beaver River.
Van Horne Nêvê and Glacier—Name: By W. S. Green, after Sir William Van Horne, a Director of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and general manager at the time of Mr. Green's expedition to the Selkirks.
Altitude: 5,300 feet—8,700 feet.
Location: Immediately west of Mt. Purity, and about 6 square miles in area. The névé is a very beautiful one, being terraced in every direction and broken by numerous nunataks. Directly at the north corner rises the snow-draped form of Mt. Purity. The glacier is extremely picturesque; from a nunatak' rising in the centre a well-developed medial moraine is built on a curve between its two ice-flows. On the west side it is fed by hanging glaciers on the slopes of Mt. McBean.
Route: Reached from Glacier House by the Asulkan trail and Pass, Geikie Glacier and Creek to its junction with Van Horne Brook, and following the brook to its source in the glacier.
Time required: It might possibly be reached in one day from Glacier House, but is more likely to take 2 days. All camp outfit must be carried on the shoulders.
Van Horne Brook—Name: By W. S. Green with reference to Van Horne Glacier.
Location: Between Mts. Purity and MacBean, flowing to Incomappleux River. A mile above the confluence it is joined by Mitre Creek, flowing from Bishops Glacier. On the west side Van Horne Brook is fed by the run-off from numerous hanging glaciers in pockets on the sides of Mt. McBean. These small glaciers are very picturesque. The stream flows in a deep, well-forested valley. Its confluence with Geikie Creek makes the Incomappleux River. Geikie Creek is the larger stream.
Vaux Glacier—Name: By the Topographical Survey, after the Brothers Vaux, of Philadelphia, who have taken a great interest in, and have done much good work in connection with the mapping, photographing and measuring of the Illecillewaet and Asulkan Glaciers in the Selkirks.
Altitude: 6,500 to 8,500 feet.
Location: A small glacier on the south-west face of Mt. Sir Donald; drains to the Illecillewaet River.
First Ascent: By Messrs. Huber and Sulzer in 1890. The stock route of Mt. Sir Donald passes up the centre of this glacier. It is a good sample of the "cliff glacier" and during the warm days of summer sends great showers of ice-blocks to feed the main body below.
