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Guide to the Selkirk Mountains.
- Use the rope on a dry glacier, if crevassed.
- Always use the rope on a névé, and never let it slacken. If the party has been unroped, rope again.
- Before jumping an open crevasse, make sure of enough slack rope behind to allow you to reach the opposite side.
- If one man falls in a crevasse, pull him out from one side only.
- On a steep snow-slope up or down, pass a loop of the rope around the handle of your ice-axe and stick the point of the handle well into the snow at every step.
- Crossing a steep snow or ice-couloir where it is necessary to cut steps, let the leader go the full length of the rope himself. Those-behind can hold the rope securely.
- Never attempt a dangerous place without at least one good anchorage within the length of the rope.
To which is added a few other cautionary rules:
- Never jump on a snow-bridge. Cross it cannily.
- Never allow more than one at a time on a doubtful snow bridge.
- Remember that all snow-bridges are likely to be weaker in the afternoon: this on account of the sun.
- Eat and drink as much as possible while climbing. Do not drink ice-water.
- Always retain a reserve of strength.
- Never climb unless in perfect physical condition, every habit normal.
- Avoid stimulants during a climb, save in emergency.
- Take some extra food in case of delay.
- Never climb a difficult mountain if it is in bad condition from fresh snow.
- Do not glissade down an unknown slope. First know the slope.
Skilful climbers who may smile at some of these rules are asked to note that they are written down for those little skilled on rock and ice.
