Geographical Society and on the 29th June, 1888, accompanied by Mr. Swanzv, he started for New York, arriving at Glacier on the 17th of July.
Glacier House, which they made their headquarters, was built by the Railway Company in 1886 as a stopping-place, some two and a half miles from the summit of Rogers Pass and almost at the junction of the two streams which, flowing respectively from the Illecillewaet Glacier and the east face of Mt. Cheops, unite to form the southerly or main branch of the Illecillewaet River. The hotel was then a pretty little building, somewhat in the Swiss Chalet style, nestling among the trees at the base of ]Mt. Abbott, and contained some half-dozen bedrooms and a spacious dining-room, capable of seating a large number of travellers. The wants of the public were first served by a staff from the dining-car under a man called Wharton. Soon, however, it became apparent that this beautiful spot would be a favourite with lovers of Nature; and in 1887 the house was placed under the management of Mr. H. A. Perley who, assisted by a capable staff, made himself popular with guests, even then filling it to repletion during the summer months.
Messrs. Green and Swanzv spent six weeks—from July 17th to August 29th—exploring, surveying and climbing in the vicinity. The result was the compilation and publication of the first topographical map of the district surrounding (Jlacier House. It accompanied an able and interesting paper read by Mr. Green before the Royal Geographical Society on the evening of February 11th, 1889. (See proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society Vol. XI., No. 3, March 1889.)
This paper was followed later by Mr. Green's vividly descriptive book, "Among the Selkirk Glaciers," published in 1890, which, unfortunately, is now out of print and can only be picked up in second-hand book stores. A volume of rare interest and charm, it ought to be reprinted.
From a climber's point of view the chief features of the expedition were the first attempt to ascend Mt. Sir Donald and the successful first ascent of Mt. Bonney. Many of the names of peaks and places that are so familiar to habitual visitors at Glacier can be traced to this expedition, for instance: Mts. Bonney, Fox, Donkin, Dawson, Macoun, Asulkan Pass and Creek, Geikie Glacier, Loop Creek, Marion Lake. Lily Col and others.
The chief difficulty encountered by Messrs. Green and Swanzy was that of procuring packers to carry supplies and other outfit. On several occasions they were compelled to carry double packs, taking one a short distance and then returning for the other, a process which, in that almost impenetrable region, must have been heart-breaking. "At Donald a mighty hunter was discovered, who expressed a desire to join us and accept our terms, but when he heard we were two parsons he 'chucked it up' in disgust, saying that he would have to knock off swearing for more than a month and that that was impossible." A cayuse (Indian pony) was sent up to the glacier for their use by Mr. Marpole, then superintendent of the railway at Donald. No pack-saddle came, so the best possible was done with a riding-saddle, and the two gentlemen started on
