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Guide to The Selkirk Mountains.

until the present summer. (1911.) Two of his sons and a nephew are now, also, in the employ of the railway company as guides.

The year was noted for the first ascent of Mt. Dawson, by Professor Fay and Professor H. C. Parker, of Columbia University. The highest point (Hasler Peak) was reached. Mt. Dawson is the peak of second greatest known altitude above sea-level in the Selkirks (11,113 ft.) being surpassed only by Mt. Sir Sandford (11,623 ft.).

The year was also noted for the second ascent of Mt. Sir Donald by M. Leprince-Ringuet, by the route attempted by W. S. Green. He was accompanied by guides Feuz and Hasler.

1900—The Selkirks were now so greatly in favour that it was necessary to detail four Swiss guides to Glacier House. No less than four ascents were made of Mt. Sir Donald in the order named: By George Vaux, Jr., A.M.C., by J. H. Scattergood, A.M.C., both of Philadelphia; by the Rev. James Outram and G. C. Butler and by Hugh E. M. Stutfield, A. C, of London, England.

1901—The records of 1901 include the second ascent of Mt. Dawson (Hasler Peak) by B. S. Comstock, of New York: the first but futile attempt on Mt. Sir Donald by a lady, Mrs. Florence Gough, registering from Ottawa; the first ascent of Sir Donald by a lady, Mrs. E. E. Berens, St. Mary's Craj', Kent, England, accompanied by her husband and guides Karl Schlunegger and Chas. Clarke; and the first ascent of Eagle Peak by a lady. Miss Henrietta L. Tuzo, Warlington, England, now Mrs. J. A. Wilson, Ottawa, a member of the A.C.C.

1902—In this year the first ascent of Mt. Macoun was made by the late Rev. J. C. Herdman, of Calgary, one of the first two Vice-Presidents of the Alpine Club of Canada. Also, the second ascent by a lady, of Mt. Sir Donald was made, and in the face of a blinding snow storm. The plucky climber, who refused to forego the triumph she had set out to win, was Miss Marion Raymond, A.C.C, of Boston, Mass.

1901–2—These are two outstanding years in the modern history of the Selkirks. They mark the Topographical Survey of the region by the Federal Government resulting in an accurate detailed topographic map showing contour lines at 100 feet equi-distance. The survey was in charge of A. O. Wheeler, F.R.G.S., and the information gathered during the survey, together with all other available information concerning the Selkirks, was compiled in two volumes, published by the Department of the Interior under the title of '"The Selkirk Range." Volume I. is composed of some 450 pages of text, together with ninety illustrations. Volume II. is made up of maps and sketches of the survey, of previous surveys, and of routes up prominent peaks.

A sad note among the happy records of 1902 was the account of the death of Fritz, a dog with more right to the title "mountaineer" than many who lay claim to it. Fritz is of the noble company of "Rab" and "Stickeen," immortalized by Dr. John Brown and John Muir. The story of his climbs and of his tragic death is matter for a little classic, wanting only the discerning and sympathetic writer with the "magic of the words." He was killed on the north side of the