from the first of April to the first of May, as dirceted for the September sowing. The sorts are Early Dutch, Drumhead, Bergen, Savoys, and Red Dutch; sow also a few large York. They will come in July or August, and be found useful for filling up vacant ground or patching. Transplanting may be in May, June, and July, as circumstances will admit. When planting out in Summer, as the weather is frequently very dry and hot, the ground should be fresh dug, the plants carefully lifted (having given them a copious watering the evening previous), and their roots dipped into a puddle or mush of cow dung, soot, or earth, before planting; then dibble them in firmly, give a good watering, and a certain growth will follow. The rows may be two feet apart, and eighteen inches from plant to plant. The after culture the same as directed for early Cabbage. When Cabbage heads have been ent, the stumps should be dug up every week and deposited in the rubbish heap. It is waste to allow them to sprout and grow, or decay and evaporate in the air. Some seasons, the fly (a small black beetle) destroys the plants as soon as they appear above the ground. Soot, air-slacked lime, and wood ashes sprinkled over them, is in part a preventive. Others destroy them by having a hen cooped, allowing the young chickens to have free access to the plants, from which they exterminate the flies. I invariably grow my scarce seed in boxes elevated eighteen inches above the ground, entirely out of the rench of this insect, which does not appear on elevated objects. This operation requires more attention in watering, but a certainty is always gained by it.
Wintering Cabbage—If you have not a dry, airy, vegetable cellar, nor an open shed to spare for burying them, take a sheltered part of the garden and bury the roots, stalk, and part of the head in the earth, over which, in severe weather place a few boards, or a light sprinkling of straw. In Southern latitudes this is unnecessary; there they can withstand the
