earlier; this is what gardeners call “topping,” which strengthens the vines. Draw earth around their stems to support them from the wind; when they begin to run, they require no further assistance, except it may be to thin out the shoots where they become too crowded and confused. Hoe and stir up the soil, and keep clear of weeds. As no garden should have a foot square of lost ground, crop between these hills. Valentine, or Snap-Short Beans, is very suitable. Three sorts sown now will be off the ground in June and July, before the Melon vines occupy the whole. This plant, with the Cucumber, is very subject to be attacked with a yellow striped, or black bug. We are not yet aware of an infallible remedy, but a dusting of soot or wood ashes will retard their progress till the plants begin to grow freely. If they are thus attacked as soon as the vines show their rough leaves, it would be imprudent to top the plants, as it stops their growth, and the insect would then entirely overcome them.
Melons may be forced, in the same way as directed for the Cucumber, when it can be conveniently done, and to my taste it is a preferable plant; the finer sorts, that will not bear the open exposure of rain and heat, should be sown, such as the Green-fleshed and Rock Melons. Some of the latter, and as fine as any I ever saw, took the first premium at the New Jersey Horticultural Society, at Princeton, the past season. They were from the garden of A. H. Stevens, Esq., of Hoboken, and did great credit to the grower. When grown under glass, the sash should have a very thin mat thrown over it, from eleven to two o’clock, and from the middle of April till the fruit is all cut; and although the leaves may droop, it is not always a sign that the plant is in want of moisture. It is not advisable to pour the water round the neck of the plant—a very common practice and a very inconsistent one; the extremity of the roots and leaves are the absorbing organs of the plant; supply the former by watering the soil, and the latter by frequent
