Page:The life and letters of Sir John Henniker Heaton bt. (IA lifelettersofsi00port).pdf/89

This page has been proofread, but needs to be validated.
AS A TRAVELLER—BY LAND
59

sides, and the friendly welcome that falls so easily from Irish lips. One "foine saft marning" in Kerry he and Lady Henniker Heaton went to look over a church, and, as they passed through the gate, a low voice was heard ejaculating in tones of deep piety: "Hivin be proised, all the foine gintilmin and the illigint ladies are not dead yit." It long remained a point of dispute as to which of them gave the old man half a crown, but they both agreed that such speeches do much to sweeten life in this unappreciative world.

Every August for over twenty years H. H. made a pilgrimage to Carlsbad. He attributed his extraordinary good health to the three weeks he spent there every year, drinking the waters and taking the cure.

In December, 1881, H. H. and Lady Heaton were present at a Canonization at Rome, which he describes in a letter to a friend:

"The ceremony of Canonization was fixed for eight a.m., but we were advised to be at the Vatican not later than half-past seven o'clock. It was hardly light at six o'clock when we breakfasted in our rooms, and by seven o'clock carriages commenced to roll into the courtyard of the Hôtel de Rome.

"Punctually at half-past seven we arrived at the Bronze Gate of the Scala Regia, or Royal Staircase of the Vatican, and were confronted by an array of Swiss Guards. These soldiers are specially attached to the Pope. Their picturesque costumes were designed by Michael Angelo. Their duties are to guard the Vatican, and on this special morning they were told off to see that no person entered the precincts but such as held personal orders of admission to witness the great ceremony of Canonization.