latively lazy, tricky, and sensual characters amongst the half-castes, both in rural places and in the towns. I found the establishment of Senhor Gaspar similar to that of Joaõ Trinidade which I have before described, opposite to the mouth of the Madeira. It was situated on a high bank: the dwelling-house was large and airy, but roughly built, and with unplastered mud-walls. There was a considerable number of outhouses, and in the rear, extensive orchards of fruit and coffee trees, with paths through them leading to the mandioca plantations. Senhor Miguel, with his wife, were absent at a new clearing which they had made for themselves in another part of the banks of the lake. The rest of the family were at home.
We were received with frank hospitality by these shrewd and lively people. Senhor Gaspar had seven children, and had himself taught them all to read and write. The boys were very quick; one of them afterwards became clerk to the Municipal Chamber of Ega. There was an air of cheerfulness and abundance about the place that was quite exhilarating.
We dined, seated on a large mat, over which a clean white towel was spread: the meal consisting of fowls and rice (the general entertainment in this country for visitors), with dessert of "laranjas torradas," or toasted oranges; that is, oranges partially dried in the sun. The fruit, grown with a little greater care in Gaspar's orchard than is usually bestowed on it in this country, was very fine in itself, but treated in this form its sweetness and richness of flavour were far superior to anything I had yet tasted. When we were about leaving,
