Page:The naturalist on the River Amazons 1863 v2.djvu/98

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VOYAGE UP THE TAPAJOS.
Chap. II.

The climate is rather more humid than that of Santarem. I suppose this is to be attributed to the neighbouring country being densely wooded, instead of an open campo. In no part of the country did I enjoy more the moonlit nights than here, in the dry season. After the day's work was done I used to go down to the shores of the bay, and lay all my length on the cool sand for two or three hours before bed-time. The soft pale light, resting on the broad sandy beaches and palm-thatched huts, reproduced the effect of a mid-winter scene in the cold north when a coating of snow lies on the landscape. A heavy shower falls about once a week, and the shrubby vegetation never becomes parched up as at Santarem. Between the rains the heat and dryness increase from day to day: the weather on the first day after the rain is gleamy with intervals of melting sunshine and passing clouds; the next day is rather drier, and the east wind begins to blow; then follow days of cloudless sky, with gradually increasing strength of breeze. When this has continued about a week a light mistiness begins to gather about the horizon; clouds are formed; grumbling thunder is heard, and then, generally in the night-time, down falls the refreshing rain. The sudden chill caused by the rains produces colds, which are accompanied by the same symptoms as in our own climate; with this exception the place is very healthy.

June 17th.—The two young men returned without meeting with my montaria, and I found it impossible here to buy a new one. Captain Thomás could find me only one hand. This was a blunt-spoken but willing