YOKE FOR A COAT
LESSON NO. 51
To make a pattern for a yoke, it shall be understood that we are to prepare a front and back part of the garment and a garment of this kind consists of only 2 pieces which is front and back It shall be furthermore understood that when the yoke is already prepared, the pattern of the foundation for the same can be involved or changed for many different styles as for instance: The different norfolk styles, which are in connection to a yokestyle, jacket or coat, is the upper part, which makes the yoke as a rule, remains in separate parts for each on front and back.
To begin drawing the outlines for the changes of making a yoke, draw first a line across the breast, as shown on the diagram and first begin the back. The breast line at the back is from A to B. Now raise from A to E and from B to F an amount of 1½ to 2 inches and then draw a line across from D to F. The difference there is between 1½ to 2 inches space of the yoke is that if we make 2 inches space the curve comes out more scalloped or more deep looking and when only having between A and E and D and F, 1½ inches space the curve comes out kind of flat. It is therefore more practical to use the 2 inch space. To continue divide the space between E and F. which makes N and then draw a straight line from N to M and curve from E to M and M to F. This action makes one scallop and a half back or two scallops or the total width of back. Should you desire to have an additional scallop in the center back, which means 3 scallops in the entire width of back; use the following rule. Take a step of 1 inch from N to O and draw a line down from O to P and then curve from F to P and from P to R down to A and then you will note that at point A, you are getting an additional half scallop, which will bring the result for a full scallop and the back is opened in full.
Now continue with the front: draw your straight breast line as shown on the diagram from X to D and then draw a straight line at the front of armhole, which is shown at C and remember that you are now to raise the same amount from C to G and D to H as you have raised at the back part from A to E and B to F. Continue in dividing the scallops for the front yoke and remember that at the front you have an amount of about 2½ to 3 inches allowed for a button stand, which is from H to L and divide the space from L to G, which makes J and draw a straight line from J to K and then curve the front yoke from G to K and from K to L and H. Should you want a center scallop in the front the same as the back you may change your curve at the front and instead of curving from L to H, curve from L down to D, as shown on the diagram. This will complete the yoke part of the front. It shall be remembered when having the entire draft made already on the front and back, it is ready to be cutout and when cutting out the pattern all we need to do is to make a split or cut a part between the upper and lower part of the front, which will split the yoke from the lower part of the front and back and do not forget that you are to allow seams for both the upper part, which is the yoke and the lower part, which is the front and back and if you should desire to have a lap seam, remember it is to be used on the lower part of the front and back and not on the upper part, which is the yoke. The amount for a lap seam allowed is for yourself to decide. If you desire to have a 1 inch lap seam allow ½ inch for same and the full amount to 1½ inches.
