Page:Thirty-five years in the East.djvu/114

to my monarch. My wish to perform this act of duty in the proper costume, was the cause of my appearing habited as a native of Bokhara, in the years 1834, 1835, and 1836, when travelling through Europe. The journey from Bokhara to Russia, which I performed in thiriy-five stations, was one of the most pleasant I ever had in the whole course of my travels, as no impediments from the elements, or other disastrous occurrences, happened during the route ; yet, to make good the proverb of Solomon "There exists nothing perfect in this sublunary world," we had a little episode, which I will here relate. Passing the rivar, Sir— known in antiquity under the name of Jaxartes — we arrived at a custom station, where they demanded an enormous toll, which we had not any right whatever to pay. An awful quarrel arose, and we were about preparing for a fight, when our antagonists, perceiving our arms, began to feel a little more respect for us ; they still, however,continued to make a noise and to. vociferate, and made fire-signals for their brethren in the desert to hasten to their assistance. But the affair was soon settled, and we went on our way without any further molestation. With regard to mercantile interests, I must here add, that among the products and manufactures, native and foreign, of Bokhara, are lamb-skins, dyed linen, horses, indigo, Cashmere shawls, &c. Respecting indigo, I may observe that it was most impure stuff, for I observed that one-half of it was nothing but particles of clay, in the same shape as it is brought by the Loanis from Dhera-Ghasi-Khan, Moultan and Bhawulpore. How much might be saved in the carriage, and in duty at the custom-houses, if the indigo were purified previous to exportation! We were almost induced to take with us a great quantity of sarsaparilla from the desert, but I soon recognised it to be a mere substitute for the real article. Among other objects which attracted my attention in the desert, connected with scientific knowledge, was the kumiss ( fermented mare's-milk ), a favourite beverage with the Kirgis, and also with the inhabitants of the Russian