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THIRTY-FIVE YEARS IN THE EAST.

and even the minutest particulars concerning those countries. Neither can I omit here to mention one circumstance, trifling as it is, for which I feel myself grateful even now. When I was on the following day on my way to see the Mint, as my oriental costume made me known everywhere, when I met the carriage of the Grand Duchess, that noble lady saluted me very kindly the instant she perceived me.

Being a native of Kronstadt in Transylvania, I thought it but right while in the vicinity of the Russian town of the same name, to visit it, a desire which must be excused, as that place enjoys a reputation for its nautical importance ; but it happens very often during life that difficulties oppose our plans, and thus it was this time with me, I was to have gone there by steamer early in the morning, but a thick fog hovering in the atmosphere, rendering it impossible to start at the appointed hour, the crew waited for clearer weather. As it did not change, we departed at nine o'clock, but not far from the harbour we ran on a sand bank, and were not able to move any further. Happily there appeared an empty steamer coming up the river from Kronstadt, as if sent by Providence to our rescue. We went on board, and proceeded, after a short delay, to the place of our destination. On the steamer there was a respectably dressed young man, who spoke German, and whose behaviour demonstrated him to be of good breeding. After a conversation, in which he learned that my intention was to stay only that day and one night at Kronstadt, he proposed to me, in a very engaging manner, to take up my quarters in his house, an offer which I heartily accepted. On our arrival at Kronstadt, I accompanied him home ; but the first sight of his rooms produced in me a very repugnant sensation ; for everything in his abode indicated disorder and uncleanliness. My displeasure increased still more, when, after a short stay in his hospitable abode, he declared to me that he was ruined, having just lost in three days all his fortune by card-playing at Petersburgh. We had not finished our conversation, which took place close to the window that looked into the yard,