Page:Through South Westland.djvu/139

was temptingly spread for the travellers. Never in the many teas I have enjoyed have I tasted one like that! Home-made buns and bread and butter, and delicious cream—why should we wander farther? But Transome’s plans, like the laws of the Medes and Persians, altered not, and he was soon urging me not to linger, as the worst part of the day’s journey was before us. I think our kind hosts were as disappointed as I was, for I found I was really the first lady tourist to reach this point, and therefore, an object of interest. The Maori ladies of a small pah here, it seemed, wanted to see me, and I had to wait a little till they had donned their best; and when they appeared they had put on everything they possessed: hats with feathers and flowers, furs and coats—in spite of the extreme warmth of the weather. I received them sitting on my horse outside the verandah. They shook hands with gentle dignity, and in their soft voices said they hoped I liked their country. I assured them I was charmed, and they beamed all over their fat, smiling faces, for the ladies were very stout. Transome meantime had been enquiring after a hat—even an old one at this stage he would have taken gladly—but as one man remarked: “How could they keep hats when every man had a different head; there would be nothing else in a store!” He had, however, got directions for our further guidance; the Main South Road ceases some way beyond the settlement—Jacob’s river, as it is called—and takes to the beach for five or six