Page:Travels & discoveries in the Levant (1865) Vol. 1.djvu/304

place in an efficient state of defence are rather amusing. They are destroying the rich brown tone of the fortifications with whitewash, and patching with plaster the time-hallowed breaches made by the stone balls of Mahomed II. and Solyman the Magnificent, with the vague hope that this white- wash will scare away the Russians. Every day a miserable handful of sailors and marines are landed from the Turkish brig-of-war stationed here, and go through an elementary drill, by which it is hoped in time to teach them how to use their cutlasses. These unpleasant preparations do not appear to disturb much the mind of the Greek population. The Rhodian peasant continues to dance at his paneggris to the old monotonous tune of his λύρα; he inquires now and then about the chance of war, but with no very distinct idea of what it is all about, and with no apparent wish to change masters. In the part of Turkey which I have had the opportunity of judging of from personal residence, that is to say the Archipelago, the Greek peasantry do not appear discontented with the present state of affairs. Their physical and moral condition has certainly much improved under the guarantee of the Tanzimat, especially in places where its action can be enforced by consuls, and where constant communication by steam with Constantinople and Europe brings the force of public opinion to bear upon the local abuses of places, such as Rhodes and Mytilene, which formerly were governed by petty tyrants, against whom no village Hampden could appeal.