Page:Travels in Mexico and life among the Mexicans.djvu/13

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CONTENTS.
BOOK I.
YUCATAN.
I.
A GLIMPSE OF YUCATAN.
From Cuba to Yucatan. — Progreso. — Its one hotel. — Sisal the desolate. — An antiprogressive railroad. — The Lagoon. — Henequen. — Indians. — Garbs of centuries agone. — The Uipil. — Advent of the steam monster. — Sleepy Cabmen. — Moresque architecture. — Caged beauties. — The Plaza. — An ancient dwelling. — T'ho, or Merida. — Street of the Elephant. — El Museo Yucateco. — American gold at premium. — The "Sabios" of Yucatan. — A hot climate. — Houses that are heat and vermin proof. — Catherwood and Stephens. — Summary of settlements. 25
II.
YUCATECOS.
A dip into history. — The first Indians of New Spain. — The captured canoe. — Cacao as currency. — The error of Columbus. — First view of Yucatan. — Hernandez de Cordova. — Juan de Grijalva. — An intrepid soldier and faithful chronicler. — Montejo, conqueror of Yucatan. — The conquest. — The indigenous race. — The Sublevados. — Indians in arms. — The hidden city. — Mestizos. — Servants. — Wages. — A primitive mill. — The Metate. — Tortillas and Frijoles. — A rare Consul. — The market. — The monastery. — Ancient religion. — The Carnival. — Estudiantes. — Caleza and Volante. — The Nunrery. — The Grand Paseo. — A Yucatan salute. — Sun worshippers. — Waltzing in higher circles. — Sweet daughters of the South. — Polite and polished people. — Lovers' intrigues 39
III.
UXMAL, THE RUINED CITY.
Ruins of Yucatan. — A Volan. — Mules with ears. — Yucatecan hospitality. — The Cenote. — An oasis. — "Buenos dias, señores!" — Subterranean rivers. — Swallows and hornets. — The cattle-yard. — Garrapatas. — Honey and turtle steak. — Sylvan bee-hives. — Stingless bees. — Oracion. — The Sierra. — The double-headed tiger. — The pyramid. — The various Casas, del Gobernador, de las Monjas, de las Tortugas, de las Palomas, de la Vieja. — The Royal Palace. — A maze of sculpture. — A hanging garden. — Description baffled. — The House of the Turtles. — The Temple of the Vestals. — The Serpent's Court. — Puzzling wealth of hieroglyphics. — The feathered serpent. — A reminder of Aztec mythology. — Other ruins: Kabah and Labná. — Comparison of the Central American ruins. — A recently discovered statue. — Theories regarding the people who built these cities. — Prejudiced historians. — A week in the ruins. — Our Maya guide. — An Aguada. — The king vulture. — The "Maya Arch" and "Elephant's Trunk." — Misled antiquarians. — Gnomes and goblins. — The Nameless Mound. — The House of Birds. — Night in the Palace. — The Bloody Hand 58