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CONTENTS.
| The beginning of this page is appended to the previous page. |
| XVII. | |
| THE MARKETS AND FLOATING GARDENS. | |
| A stride through the markets. — Products of every zone. — The omnipresent baby. — Where the flowers are sold, — and where they come from. — A redeeming trait of the Aztec character. — Inborn taste for flowers. — Beauty a begging. — Bridge of La Viga. — The American Venice and its gondoliers. — To the Floating Gardens. — Guatemotzin. — Among the Chinampas. — How Floating Gardens are formed. — What are grown on them. — A wonderful lake. — A sunken city. — Chalco. — An ancient town. — Food-supplying insects. — "Cakes like unto brick-bats." — The Axayacatl. — The lizard-frog. — The American Aloe, or Maguey. — Pulque, and how it is made. — Aguamiel, or honey-water. — Analysis of pulque. — The princess who invented a drink. — The Mexican tipple. — A precursor of cocktails. — Meat markets. — Perambulating butcher-shops. — A clamorous crowd. — Universal depravity of the milkman. — Don Felipe and his cow | 327 |
| XVIII. | |
| THE GRAND PASEO, CHAPULTEPEC, EL DESIERTO, AND GUADALUPE. | |
| The Alameda. — Statue of Carlos IV. — The Grand Paseo. — A magnificent avenue. — Glorietas. — Statues to Columbus, Cortés, Guatemotzin. — A resort of wealth and fashion. — The need of Mexico. — No American hotel. — The future American quarter. — The new City of Mexico. — The ancient quarries. — Marble baths. — Maximilian's scheme. — Chapultepec. — The Castle. — Molino del Rey. — Montezuma, his cypress, his harem, and his bath. — The Aqueducts. — Ancient rock carvings. — The battles of '47. — Dolores. — Tacubaya. — San Angel. — The gambling centre. — Shepherds and cut-throats. — The Carmelite Convent. — Chartering a diligence. — The Meson. — The man with No hay. — "Trot out your donkeys." — A sad procession. — The Monks' Paradise. — Pearls, crowns, and golden chains. — Balaam and his Burro. — The donkey brigade. — The Shrine and Virgin of Guadalupe. — The stone ship | 349 |
| XIX. | |
| POPOCATAPETL. | |
| The two huge peaks. — An active volcano. — The Smoking Mountain. — A comparison. — Volcano of Jorullo. — The Morelos Railroad. — San Lazaro. — Amecameca. — Iztaccihuatl. — The dead giantess. — A holy hill. — Sacro Monte. — An ascent of Popocatapetl. — Warnings. — In disguise. — A Volcanero. — A practised phlebotomist. — Ten thousand feet up. — "Are you armed?" — The black crosses. — Pious murderers. — The dark forest. — Lost. — Cuidado! — Coyotes and Pumas. — At last! — Don Domingo. — Rancho of Tlamacas. — Sulphur and ice. — Pico del Fraile. — Disheartening stories. — Baffled tourists. — A deep Barranca. — Shifting sands. — La Cruz. — Limit of vegetation. — A sublime spectacle. — The White Woman. — Description by Cortés. — Valley of Mexico. — Orizaba. — At the snow line. — Enveloped in fog. — Climbing the cone. — Above the clouds. — Advice. — My "guides." — Value of coca. — The Crater. — The God of Storms. Eighteen thousand feet above the sea. — The finding of sulphur. — Scientific investigation. — Minute description of the crater. — Sulfataras. — Sulphur vents. — A storm in the upper regions. — Photographing against odds. — Battle-field of the elements. — A test of endurance. — The slide down the cone. — A misstep. — The field of ashes. — Sunset. — Popocatapetl compared with other high mountains | 371 |
