Don Felipe told me that he was searching for the trail. The peon and volcanero held a consultation, and it was agreed to leave all to the pack-horse; and then we went on again, the peon clinging to his horse's tail,—all depending upon the instinct of that poor brute.
The Cuidado!—"Beware!"—of the guide became more frequent as the path was obstructed by fallen pines and cut by numerous gulches. A long-drawn howl swept through the black forest at intervals, which Don Felipe said was that of a coyote, or wolf; and more rarely we heard the blood-curdling cry of the puma, or mountain lion. Fortunately for travellers, but unfortunately for naturalists, these animals are exceedingly rare. One would have been enough, however, for us that night; he could have destroyed the entire party without our seeing him at all. We descended a steep ravine and climbed a high hill covered with pines, down which we went, and crossed another ravine; and about this time, when I thought it would be the proper thing to despair, we turned a clump of trees and saw a light. Soon we reached a gate, which a servant opened at our bidding, and Don Domingo, the mayor-domo, warmly welcomed us. We had been five hours in the saddle, and were so cold and stiff we could hardly get our legs together when lifted to the ground. The poor peon, who had walked and run all the way, with only a shirt on, and cotton trousers rolled up to his thighs, had to attend to the horses; though Don Felipe—true caballero that he was—allowed no one but himself to care for his.
It was nine o'clock, Don Domingo told us; we had thus passed three hours groping in the darkness of the mountain forests. Made welcome to the roughly-built house, we entered and found a roaring fire leaping up the open throat of a clay chimney. By this cheering blaze we thawed ourselves out, and by the time meat was boiled and coffee ready were in condition to enjoy them. Don Domingo, a perfect gentleman of the type so often met with in Mexico, read my letter of introduction, and told me it was not necessary to present it, as he recognized in me a friend after his own heart. He then embraced me and patted me on the back, and set out his only remaining bottle
