Page:Wanderings of a Pilgrim Vol 2.djvu/16

CHAPTER LIII.

DEPARTURE FOR THE HILLS—LANDOWR.

1838, March 16th.

First View of the Snowy Ranges—Saharanpūr—Mohunchaukī—An
Adventure—The Keeree Pass—Rajpūr—Motī—The Gūnth—Hill-*men—A
Jampan—Ascent to Landowr—Hill Flowers—Purity of the
Air—View of the Himalaya—The Khuds—Mussoorī—Rhododendron
Trees—Mr. Webb's Hotel—Curious Soap—The Landowr Bazār—Schools
in the Hills—Cloud End—The White Rhododendron—Storm
in the Hills—Hill Birds—Fever in the Hills—Newlands—Death of
Major Blundell 224


CHAPTER LIV.

PICTURESQUE SCENES IN THE HILLS.

1838, April 17th.

Jerrīpānī—The Cicalas—View from the Pilgrim's Banglā—A Fall over
a Precipice—The Glow-worm—Wild-beast Track—The Scorpion—Mules—Karral
Sheep—Wet Days—Noisy Boys—Conical Hills—The
Khuds—Earthquake at Cloud End—The Waterfall—Fall of a Lady
and Horse over a Precipice—Kalunga—General Gillespie—The Kookree—The
Ghoorkas—The Korah—The Sling—Ben Oge—Danger of
Exposure to the Mid-day Sun—An Earthquake—A Spaniel seized by
a Leopard—A Party at Cloud End—A Buffer encounters a Bear—Hills
on Fire—Botanical Gardens—Commencement of the Rains—Expedition
to the Summit of Bhadráj—Magnificence of the Clouds—Storms in High
Places—Danger of Narrow Roads during the Rains—Introduction of
Slated Roofs in the Hills 236


CHAPTER LV.

LIFE IN THE HILLS.

1838, June 29th.

Kharītā of her Highness the ex-Queen of Gwalior—A Mountain Storm—An
Adventure—Asses carried off by Leopards—Bear's Grease—Dēodar
Oil—Apricot Oil—Hill Currants—Figs and Tar—The Cholera—Sacrifice
of a Kid to the Mountain Spirit—Absurdity of the Fear of a Russian
Invasion—Plague of Fleas—The Charmed Stone—Iron-stone—Khobarah,
the Hill Dog—Sheep-stealing—Booteah Chharra—Flexible
Stone—A Fearful Storm—A Doomed Banglā—Leaf Butterflies—Bursting
of the Mahratta Bāndh at Prāg—Similarity of the Singular
Marriages in the Hills with those of the Ancient Britons—-Honesty of
the Paharīs, i.e. Mountaineers 250