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chap. ii.
HARD FARE.
45

about seventy feet high, which had been produced by the action of the weather, and, in all probability, chiefly by rain. In this case a "block of euphotide or diallage rock protects a friable limestone;"[1] the contrast of this dark cap with the white base, and the singularity of the form, made it a striking object. These natural pillars are among the most remarkable examples of the potent effects produced by the long-continued action of quiet-working forces. They are found in several other places in the Alps,[2] as well as elsewhere.

The village of Ville Vieille boasts of an inn with the sign of the Elephant; which, in the opinion of local amateurs, is a proof that Hannibal passed through the gorge of the Guil. I remember the place, because its bread, being only a month old,[3] was unusually soft, and, for the first time during ten days, it was possible to eat some, without first of all chopping it into small pieces and soaking it in hot water, which produced a slimy paste on the outside, but left a hard untouched kernel.

The same day I crossed the Col Isoard to Briançon. It was the 15th of August, and all the world was en fête; sounds of revelry proceeded from the houses of Servières as I passed over the bridge upon which the pyrrhic dance is annually performed,[4] and natives in all degrees of inebriation staggered about the paths. It was late before the lights of the great fortress came into sight; but unchallenged I passed through the gates, and once more sought shelter under the roof of the Hotel de l'Ours.

  1. J. D. Forbes.
  2. In the gorge of the Dard, near Aosta; near Enseigne, in the Val d'Hérens; near Stalden, in the Visp Thal; near Ferden, in the Lotschen Thal; and, on a grander scale, near Botzen, in the Tyrol; and in America on the Colorado river of the west.—See chap. 23.
  3. "An ancient and solemn custom wills that each family makes its bread in advance for a whole year, in order to show to the envious that corn is not wanting. The poor only eat new bread now and then, and do so because they are unable to make it at once for a whole year. But they are ashamed of their poverty, and when they are making it, hide from the sight of their neighbours."—Elisée Reclus, Tour du Monde, 1860.
  4. See Ladoucette's Hautes-Alpes, p. 596.