Papers of William Shakespeare Hall, 1861–1895/Gregory's expedition
EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH-WEST.
April - November,
1861.
A DIARY
kept
by
WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE HALL
as a member of the North West Australian Exploring Expedition under the command of
which explored the Ashburton, Fortescue and DeGrey districts, between April and November. 1861.
Copied from the original by
NOTES ON TEXT.
(By J.M. Clifton).
1861.
APRIL 23.
Went on board the "Dolphin" at 7 a.m. & by 11 got under weigh with a fresh breeze from the E.N.E. The portion of the party embarked comprised the following persons.
F.T. Gregory, Commander, J. Turner second in command, E. Brockman, J. McCourt, W.S. Hall, Assistants, & A. James Farrier.
Supplies for 8 months were provided; & 10 horses were put on board in Fremantle.
APRIL 27.
Anchored in Champion Bay about 10 a.m.
APRIL 28.
Sunday.
APRIL 29.
Party employed in filling up ship's water casks.
APRIL 30.
The same.
MAY 1.
Swam 10 horses off to the ship about ¾ of a mile, one of them old Joe the Miller, as awkward as the devil, attempted to commit suicide by drowning & as I prevented him from doing that, gave me a good ducking.
MAY 2.
Sailed at 4 p.m.
MAY 6.
Sighted Cape Cuvier at noon.
MAY 7.
Sighted North West Cape at 10 a.m.
MAY 10.
Sighted Le Gendre Island at daylight & dropped anchor at 6 p.m. in 13 fathoms - between DeCambre & Hiray Island (I think).
MAY 11.
At 2 p.m. weighed anchor and stood in S.W. ½ W & anchored in 2 fathoms in Nicol Bay; manned boat at 3 p.m. to take soundings up Bay, S.W. course; myself acting as coxwain under Mr. Gregory's directions; after dark endeavoured to land on Eastern shore, got into broken water, with rocky bottom, boat going bump! bump! bump! which I reckon "Cupid" did not much admire on his ½ inch pine bottom. Shoved off, breakers ahead hard a port, & more by good luck than good management, got out the way we got in - ship sent up a rocket, & burnt blue light, endeavoured to make her, but too dark, too late, too windy; & ship too distant. Sailors tired out at midnight, & hove up; so we spent the night in the middle of the bay, all wet through. About 4 p.m. boat in broken water again, as we had all been asleep & she drifting; tried to pull through it, but the farther we pulled the worse we made of it, breakers everywhere, & we in the midst of them, clear of them after an hard pull for an hour or two, at daylight found ourselves on a lee shore, & blowing hard, ship about 9 miles to windward, after pulling hard till noon we were more abreast of her, but had not made an inch, except lee way.
Sailors wished to beach the boat, but the surf was too heavy, at last a boat came from the ship, with biscuits, brandy & a tow rope, three things which we all very much required as we had not taken any food with us, arrived on board at 3 p.m.
MAY 13.
Went on shore in full force & armed with two boats, to the Eastern side of the bay. Captain Dixon returned to the ship with his boat; we remained & slept on oars & etc in the boat, with a wet sail to cover us, not first rate lodging by any means.
MAY 14.
McCourt and I were left in charge of the boat, while Mr. Gregory & some of the party went on a tour of inspection; & came back at 3 p.m. well tired and much in want of water, not having found any. The tide rose from 5 ft to 21 feet.
MAY 15.
Mr. G. & party went on shore on west side of Bay, dug a well & obtained water, rather brackish, & good feed near it. Two natives came on board, one 6ft 4 inches (height) on logs like a canoe in shape, they paddled with their hands; & managed them well & expeditiously; they came about five miles to the ship.
MAY 16.
Weighed anchor at 8 a.m. & stood in for Sandy Cove (Hearson) where the party had found water the previous day; & anchored in 2½ fathoms at low water, 3 miles from the shore. As we were about to land with 2 horses, a gun in the boat in advance of ours went off & shot Mr Hearson the 2nd mate through both thighs; with a ball. (I saw the poor fellow fall) it was done accidentally; & as such things usually are, through carelessness.
MAY 17.
Landed 4 horses. Many natives came to the camp. Mr. Gregory & Browne drove them away; & fired at one who seemed to have a longing for horse flesh.
MAY 18.
Landed two horses - rather rough; natives about; much rain.
MAY 19.
Sunday. Much rain during previous night. Landed two horses.
MAY 20.
6 horses. Messrs Gregory & Browne rode out to inspect intended route.
MAY 21.
Last four horses were landed; as we had to swim them all three miles, we were fortunate in getting them all safely on shore. Landed some stores; James shoeing. Heavy rain through the night (Winter rains unusual in these parts).
MAY 22.
Landed remainder of provisions; & Smith shoeing. Mr. G & Brown out reconnoitring route; had to leave horses (their horses) on account of rise of tide.
Camp in Hearson Cove Nicol Bay.
Lat - 20° 54'. Long - 116° 45'
(Doubtful).
MAY 23.
Preparing to start. Brown & Harding brought in horses left out by Mr. Gregory. Mr. Hearson removed to on board ship.
MAY 24.
Started from Camp in Bay. The horses not being used to packs, commenced such jumping, rearing & rearing, as would have astonished the natives had there been any about; so we returned to camp to repair damages & alter pack saddles.
MAY 25.
Started better prepared; & travelled for about 9 miles through rocky hills & valleys, with little grass, which brought us to a salt marsh 2 miles in extent; this we crossed with some little difficulty, had to unload our horses; country beyond extensive plains, with rocky hills, no timber, feed in patches; camped in dry watercourse with stunted gums; obtained water in clay pans on plain.
Course S. by N & S 16 miles.
(Camp 2)
MAY 26.
Sunday. Travelled 1 mile & camped on Maitland (or) (Sunday) River, fine pool of water, with plenty of good grass; 30 cockatoos shot by Brockman & McCourt at two shots.
(Camp 3) Lat 20° 54' Long 116. 36'.
MAY 27.
18 miless S.S. West by S over large plains with rocky ranges; & Triodia; heavy rain through the night, turned out to save stores from flood; as we had camped in a dry creek.
(Camp 4).
MAY 28.
12 miles about S.W. Hills less stony, low ground, very soft with much Triodia - Crossed a stream with water, saw 2 rose cockatoos; & 2 beautiful crested Pheasants.
(Lat 21° 7' Long 116° 4' Water in clay pans Camp 5).
MAY 29.
15 miles S.W. & S. Struck on large watercourse (Fortescue River) drift 20 feet high in trees. Shot 2 Pelicans, awfully strong food, at least in scrub. River 150 yards wide, & much serpentine in it. Cliffs of Metamorphic sandstone, very high. Lat 21° 18' Long 116. 4'. (Camp 6).
MAY 30.
About 16 miles following up bends of river in all directions, but made only about 6 miles in E. & S. course. We endeavoured to travel the bed of the river; but had to return in consequence of the hills being too rough for the horses, saw some natives. Camp 7. Lat 21° 19' 29". Very bad travelling for the horses.
MAY 31.
About 16 miles up river a little to the S of E but probably not more than half that distance in a direct line. Bad travelling, all stones, principally Serpentine; & Granite, with some Flint, & Quartz. One little tributary to the river from S. (Camp 8)
Brown hunted a black into the river. Cajeput trees, Flooded gums, & some grass on river.
JUNE 1.
Course up river, 16 miles, fine pools of water more frequent, large tributary, from the S. We found the Queen (a). of Australian flowers today; & called it the white Dragon or water tree (by account).
Camp 9. Lat 21° 28'. Long 116° 31'.
General remarks on country. Hills metamorphic sandstone frequently very rough & broken, with some Granite & Trap changed by heat.
The plains for miles covered with debris from hills, & producing little else but triodia, which the horses will not eat, except when in seed, no timber on either hills or plains; but some gum, cajeput trees, & other strange shrubs in the river bed; & many sorts of grass. Several lots of natives seen, & white ant hills all over the country 9 to 10 feet high.
JUNE 2.
Sunday. Camped for the day, excellent feed, the best since we left the bay.
JUNE 3.
13 miles E by S little till noon, after which the river led us to the northward of E. The country presenting the same aspect as previously. Camp 10 Lat 21° 27'.
JUNE 4.
9 miles course the same as before. The hills as rough as usual; & bed of river almost impassable, on account of narrowing; as some considerable branches were passed. The horses continually falling heavily & getting bogged, lost 5 shoes.
Today the river turned more to the S.E. in the afternoon. (Camp 11 Lat 21° 33' L 117° by account)
JUNE 5.
10 miles about S. We were compelled to brave the river; as after starting we soon found ourselves locked in, with steep cliffs on one hand; & deep water on the other. We travelled over very rough steep ranges, for 5 miles; & a plain for about 5 more, with some grass, which brought us to the foot of a fine bold range of hills (named the Hamersley) where we camped without water.
The ranges we traversed in the early part of the day, have something of the auriferous character, with however but little quartz, & the trap horizontal.
Light shower or two through night. Camp 12.
JUNE 6.
3 miles N.E. We returned to the river for water, & struck it 7 miles above where we left it.
The plain at the foot of the Hamersley Range is excellent soil, rich deep brown loam, with excellent feed up to our saddle flaps. We passed over much quartz, some covered with a calcareous looking substance. Here the river is a very fine stream, & on its banks we first met with an extraordinary palm tree, with branches 7 feet wide, & 8 feet long. (Syagrus revoluta) 4 ft High. The party caught a bucketful of fish, some 2½ lbs weight, somewhat resembling a cobbler. Fine grass & good soil on river. The plain at the root of Hamersley Range was named the Chichester Downs. Camp 13.
JUNE 7.
12 miles S.E. by E. Fine feeding ground most of the day. The river presented a fine sheet of water, which to our surprise terminated rather abruptly.
The ration was reduced to 1 lb of flour per diem & little enough too.
Camp 14. Lat 21° 40' Long 117° 17'
JUNE 8
20 miles E.S.E. Much good grass & land till noon; after which inferior. Here we first found a wild plum. After dark the horses commenced rushing along at a furious pace. I thought they smelt water, camped without any for them, or feed either, as they were tied up we had water in our flasks. Camp 15 Lat 21° 49'.
JUNE 9.
Sunday. In about ½ a mile came on water & camped. Found remains of native in tree. Camp 15.
Camp 16.
JUNE 10.
23 miles E.S.E. Much good feed. Saw 8 or 10 natives; & came on a little miserable child, & gave him some Damper. Found very productive melons. No water except in flasks. Camp 17. Lat 21° 55, 118'
JUNE 11.
20 miles S. Good feed & some triodia, water in clay pans none at night except in flasks. Camp 18. Lat 22° 12'
JUNE 12.
Came on water at 10 a.m. Ascended two gullies & found them impassable, last one running water. Main channel of the Fortescue River. 3 miles S.E. Camp 19. Lat 22° 15' Long 118° 4' 30".
JUNE 13.
17 miles S. Crossed very steep ranges, on to plain, with fine grass, & plenty of water, but not permanent.
Camp 20. Lat 22° 26'.
JUNE 14.
17 miles S S W no water for horses since 2 p.m. Very steep ranges crossed, could not keep the horses together after dark, as the country was so very rough, lost one, but found him after much trouble, poor feed. Camp 21. Lat 22° 41'.
JUNE 15.
15 miles W 2½ N - which brought us to water at 4 p.m. horses very much in need of it. We had water in our flasks but were afraid to drink much of it. Poor feed & rocky ground Camp 22.
JUNE 16.
Sunday. Read prayers & repaired harness.
JUNE 17.
13 miles S & 7N Course down large dry creek, through poor country, found water, at foot of large white & pink trap cliff at 10 a.m. & again at noon by digging in gravel. We saw an extraordinary cave like a Gothic arch. Tracks of several natives seen. No water for horses at night. (Camp 23).
JUNE 18.
9 miles S.W. Following down dry creek; till McCourt & I went in search of water (of which we stood in much need) & found plenty on a plain 1 mile off, (not permanent) with excellent feed. Camp 24. Lat 22° 58'. Long by acct 117° 21'.
JUNE 19.
Unable to proceed as Mr. Gregory was very ill from, having eaten, some Mesembryanthemum. It had no bad effect on me.
JUNE 20.
10 miles N a.m. & 10 S W p.m. Left old Lennard (a horse) done up. Followed down dry creek. I hope those black rascals, will not eat him; as we may want him ourselves. Poor country & feed, no water for horses at night. Permanent water at noon. (Camp 25).
JUNE 21.
6 miles N.W. In which direction the creek seemed to bend. No appearance of any water; so we returned to yesterday's noon halt, & for depot camp. - Camp 26. Lat 22° 58' Long 117° 10'.
JUNE 22.
Mr Gregory - with light party of 3 & 7 horses, started to finish exploration to river Lyons.
JUNE 23.
In camp with Turner, McCourt, & James living first rate, on cockatoos, crested doves, pigeons &c. (Camp 27)
JUNE 24.
In camp repairing harness, washing, looking after horses.
JUNE 25, 26, 27, 28.
The same.
JUNE 29.
Gentle rain all the morning. Mr. G & party returned having sighted Mt. Augustus; & the Lyons flats; they travelled about 60 geographical miles S & discovered three rivers, one the Ashburton, larger than the Fortescue.
JUNE 30.
Sunday. As usual.
JULY 1.
Homeward bound. 12 miles on outward track to old Lennard's flat, where we found him much improved.
JULY 2.
22 miles. Found water in gravel (on outer track) very low at 2 p.m. Camped at white & pink. Plenty of water Camp 34.
JULY 3.
15 miles, left old track to the S.E. returned to it at noon; & found just enough water in rocky water hole for horses. No water for horses at night but fine feed. Some of party fired at emu quite close; & missed him. Could have done as much myself.
Camp 35 Lat 22° 32'.
JULY 4.
24 miles we gradually neared outward track to within 2 miles, when we came on plenty of water & feed at 5 p.m. horses much in want of it. Camp 35.
JULY 5.
18 miles. We found a good pass into the Hamersley Range & struck old track at 11 a.m. Dined on S.W. branch of Fortescue River & followed it out, much better, than the way we came in. Slept on plain, no water for horses.
Camp 37.
JULY 6.
20 miles. Struck river in an hour, plenty of water; passed bullrush pool at 10.30 a.m., followed river down for 13 miles. Camp 38.
64 geographical miles south of Bay.
JULY 7.
Sunday. Made jam of wild plum. Turner & self had a long walk after 6 horses, did notlfind them. I killed a snake close to my feet while bathing. Many cockatoos shot. Caught a strange little animal. ((Marginal note: This animal was rare, furry, generally seen at deserted camps, sitting, with its hind legs hooked over its shoulders; never more than one at a tine seen .).).
A comet which had disappeared for some time since, made its appearance, not so bright as previously.
JULY 8.
In camp. Maitland Brown, Brockman, & McCourt, out after horses (6) brought them in at about 3.30 from 15 miles off on back track.
JULY 9
15 miles. 4 horses out till 11 a.m. 8 miles off near old camp. Passed several pools of water during the day. Lat 21° 41' Long 117. 47 Camp 39.
JULY 10.
12 miles N. Fine grassy undulating plains (but very stony) till 10.3 a.m. After which rocky ranges. Made a creek at noon, with running water; & almost impassable bed & banks. Horses very much tried; but few with a set of shoes; & many very lame. Left old track. Made about 7½ miles Westering. Lat 21° 29' 10" Bay about 75 miles by account - Camp 40 (Sherlock) (b).
JULY 11.
15 miles N.N.E. The stream gradually became larger till it is now a river of considerable size & named the Sherlock. Much trouble to get the horses over the stones Shot a Pelican (Camp 40)
JULY 12.
15 miles N.N.W. at first bed of river very stony; after which deep sand, more suitable to horses. Saw several natives; & peculiar mode of catching birds under boughs. Our own & the horses’ shoes nearly worn out. Brackish water at 5 p.m. Camp 42.
JULY 13.
7 miles W. Large sheet of water, with plenty of wild fowl. Mr. Gregory shot a fine swan; & Mr. Brown a beautiful strange teal. Plenty of fish in river. Horses very lame. Tree never seen before with long nut smelling like garlic.
We called this part of the "Sherlock" Lake Plenty. Lat 21° 6' Long 117° 32'. Camp 43.
JULY 14.
Sunday. Mr. Brockman shot a swan, 7 ducks, 6 cockatoos & 2 swan hens. Mr. Brown shot three ducks & a rock kangaroo & James & myself caught about 40 lbs weight of fish, one 5½ lbs.
A strange bird in some parts (ways) it resembles a fowl. A large white crane was also seen with many black shags Many tracks of natives. Emus, dogs (dingos) turkeys & other wild animals.
JULY 15.
15 miles N.N.W. compelled to leave one of our best horses (Rocket) quite done up in his feet; & but for the drift and would soon have had to leave more; as he is a sample of the mob.
Water in claypan; in river; very poor country. Camp 44 Lat 20° 54' 45'
JULY 16.
15 miles N.W. & S.W. Making about 10 miles of westing Extensive grassy plain for 3 hours, which ran to the N.E. as far as the eye could reach. At 11 a.m. a little water in river (fresh) & saw an extensive sheet of water running into an estuary at 2 p.m. Much triodia; & a little grass, with poor sandy loam. We passed many salt water creeks; & at 5.30 found sufficient water to give horses a gallon each (in small dry water course) Much grass, but no wood, cooked with brush.
Saw 8 or 9 natives fishing with nets who all ran away; they had large nets; & small wooden troughs; & mutton fish shells of great size, for water vessels. Also a ring cushion to carry them on their heads. We found much grass seed in their camp; in course of preparation for food, & a meat tin; & pine board. Camp 45. Lat 20° 52' Long 117° 15'.
JULY 17.
18 miles W. by S. Large plains with pretty good feed through the morning; water at 11 a.m. in granite, also water in clay water course at 3 p.m. land and feed about the same as above; but triodia & poor land at night; without water Camp 46.
JULY 18.
25 miles W. Extensive plains, with some grass & much triodia, water 11 a.m. in creek; at 3 p.m. passed very large quartz reef. Sighted ship at 4 o'clock; crossed marsh & camped on Island. Camp 47.
JULY 19.
6 miles W to old camp in Hearson Cove. On firing a shot the boat which was about 1 mile on her way to the ship returned. The Bay & ship by far the prettiest part of country.
In camp from 19th to 29th shoeing horses, repairing harness &c &c
EXPEDITION TO ROEBUCK BAY.
JULY 29.
4 miles S by W. Started at 5 p.m. to shorten distance to find water (about 25 miles). Camped near little brackish pool, poor feed. I found my knee very painful from having run many horse shoe nails into it.
JULY 30.
2 miles. On old track; as soon as we were on the march the horses stuck in the mud, 3 or 4 at once; but by quickly unloading them they did not seem to be injured much.
We camped at water, which found at 11 a.m.
Dug for some water for horses. Camp 48.
JULY 31.
16 miles. On old track; but a little nearer range, camped at 3 p.m. on river of considerable size, one branch of which is most likely the granite water hole, struck on route in. Now named the Harding. Excellent feed Camp 49.
AUGUST 1.
17 miles a little to the S.E. of old track. Mr G shot a kangaroo very different from those west. About 30 seen today. Came on large pool of fresh water one of many in river; not seen on in track. Camped at 3 p.m. & found water very cold, when bathing. Pigeons, cockatoos, ducks & black shags in abundance. Camp 50 Lat 21° 54'.
AUGUST 2.
23 miles. Struck old track about 8 miles, to the west of Lake Plenty; we found the remains of our horse Rocket. Shot two native dogs. Strong S.E. winds about this time very cold (named this river the Sherlock) Camp 51.
AUGUST 3.
10 miles on old track to water at bird cages till noon halt (10 miles) After which course more easterly; & struck another branch of the Sherlock; with water in flags; put poor feed. Camp 52 Lat 21° 7'
AUGUST 4.
Sunday.
AUGUST 5.
20 miles E.S.E. neither feed or water all day. Granite hills all bare; & plains almost as bad; all hands in search of water, without success. A native told us we should find no water to the east; but plenty to the south. This we found correct. Camped in dry gully in ranges. Camp 53 Lat 21° 10'.
AUGUST 6.
7 miles S.W. Struck water about 10 a.m. Horses much in want of it. Followed bed of stream up for about 5 miles (or 7) Found it quite dry. No water for horses at night. Camp 54. Shot 10 cockatoos 3 ducks.
AUGUST 7.
4 miles down stream to water; & found depot camp. Caught a number of perch with our hands. Camp 55 Lat 21°14' 28"
AUGUST 8.
Mr. Gregory started with two of the party in search of a practicable route; leaving 5 in camp, repairing harness &c. A little light rain today.
AUGUST 9.
As above.
AUGUST 10.
Mr. Gregory returned at 5 p.m. having discovered a large river 30 miles off; which he named the Yule.
AUGUST 11.
Shooting & fishing with McCourt with little success. Shot a large kingfisher. (Sunday) Long 118° 3' E.
AUGUST 12.
23 miles E. Started from depot camp, for Yule River, came on rocky water hole, at 3.30 p.m. in dry creek. We slept on plain, plenty of feed.
AUGUST 13.
7 ms E to Yule where we found many large pools of water, with large beds of drift sand between. Party shot some ducks & cockatoos. Lat 21° 6' 22"
AUGUST 14.
20 miles. Starting on a S.S.E. course; but finding no water on the branch we were following, left it when after some hours finding no water, returned to the river by a S.W. course; & made it many miles above last camp. Mr. G shot a fine emu. Country very barren, red granite hills; & across sandy plains, covered with triodia. Obtained water by digging. Camp 58. Lat 21. 23. 23.
AUGUST 15.
15 miles S.E. up river, the country the same as yesterday, passed 2 small pools of water; & dug for some at noon; had a little feed for horses on river bank. Camp 59. Lat 21° 32' 13".
AUGUST 16.
18 miles E. Country same as above, very extensive plain. Scanty feed supply of water, for horses at noon by digging. Branch of river almost run out. Towards evening feed much improved about native well on plain. Camp 60 Lat 21° 34'
AUGUST 17.
13 ms E by S Country somewhat improved, found water for noon halt, under high cliff, very difficult of approach. P.m. country very poor, struck stream, & followed it down. Plenty of feed in small patches, with water; saw 9 natives today. Camp 61.
AUGUST 18.
Sunday. Lat 21° 36" 8" Long 119° 13'.
AUGUST 19.
15 ms: N & E The river increased much in size. one very fine pool, where the party shot 6 teal & 2 ducks. Several tributaries to river; & led us about 7 miles E, when it changed its course N, which we followed about 8 miles. Some good feed on its banks; but country generally very poor and rough, with bare granite hills; & but little of it flat, much quartz for some days (now auriferous) today laminated & feldspathic granite & quartz. The horses begin to show fatigue. Camp 52. Lat 21° 26".
AUGUST 20.
18 miles: 16 E on course. Route from N.E, to E.S.E. over rocky undulating country. We left the river Strelley & passed over several other streams till we found one tr trending East, which we followed & camped in Glen Herring. Camp 63. Lat 21° 20' 35".
AUGUST 21.
(22½ ms) 18 on course. Mr. G shot a turkey, & we caught 5 young emus. Came on river of considerable size named it the Shaw. Good feed on flats. (poor land between) plenty of water now at night for horses. Camp 64. Lat 21° 20'
AUGUST 22.
(20 ms) About 16 E. found small pool of water in dry stream bed 10 a.m. & running water at noon halt. Also at 4 p.m. & sundown. Country rough & hilly with much triodia Camp 65. Lat 21° 28' (Emu Creek)
AUGUST 23.
(17 ms) 10 E. Travelling S.E. & N. water at noon & again at dusk by digging. Camp 66 Lat 21° 23'.
AUGUST 24.
(5 ms) 3 ms Easting Camped at 10.15 a.m. to rest horses. (As they were looking very bad) On creek running into the hills instead, as it appeared out of them with plenty of feed & water. We saw one native man & three women; who as usual ran away. Camp 67. Lat 21° 20'
AUGUST 25.
Sunday. Longitude by observation 120° 17' 30 E.
Caught an opossum.
AUGUST 26.
12 ms & about 15 with northing. We followed the creek down till it received several tributaries; & became one of the finest rivers in these parts (Named it the Merival) With running water & more luxuriant feed; here it is about 60 yards broard & appears to be deep, extending in a sheet further than the eye can reach; & is bordered with a margin of bamboo; & water tree in full blossom (c). At noon halt turned out under the largest gum tree we had seen; up which a native had concealed himself. Saw 7 red tailed cockatoos. Camp 68.
AUGUST 27.
10 ms northerly & 7 ms E.S.E. after we left the main stream (which was named the DeGrey) at 3.30 p.m. Shot 6 whistling ducks; & caught a number of perch at noon halt, fine river for wild fowl. We struck another creek more on our course with water; but dug for it at night; Horses scarcely able to move forward. Camp 69.
AUGUST 28.
12 ms E over some of the roughest ranges we have crossed, composed of quartz metamorphic sandstone & trap. Found a little water, also at 1 p.m. by digging in same creek. Turpin & Old Joe quite done up. Compelled to leave them. 3 more but little better. Camped on flat with good feed; & plenty of spring water. Saw three native women who tried to hide their heads in the grass. Camp 70 Lat 21° 9'.
AUGUST 29.
10 ms E. The horses left behind were brought in at 10 a.m. At 2 p.m. started for another river (Oakover) which we made about dark. Horses much done up, plenty of feed & water. Camp 71.
AUGUST 30.
8 ms S.E. up the river, plenty of feed & water 6 ducks & 3 cockatoos shot; did not travel till p.m. Caught 147 little perch; 4 of party dismounted; & their horses packed. Camp 72.
AUGUST 31.
10 ms. S. We travelled about 15 miles before we made a halt; but lost some distance in having to return to the river for water (westward) We saw two chockalocks & 6 red tail cockatoos. River bearing westward of South Camp 73 Lat 21° 23' 43".
SEPTEMBER 1.
Sunday. Brockman & Brown shot 18 pigeons.
SEPTEMBER 2.
16 ms E Route at first over about 7 miles of plain, of a poor description, then ranges till noon, where we found water in a creek; with plenty of feed, p.m, climbing barren hills of bare rock, which we got through, about sundown; & found water in a sandy creek. We then travelled on to a native camp; & rode through it shouting to them; as it was dark, they thought we were other blacks; & almost ran over us when they found out their mistake. Camped about a mile below them; & kept a sharp look out. Camp 74. Lat 21° 21' 30".
SEPTEMBER 3.
E.S.E. 18 ms. Travelling up sand plain, with low sand ridges on either hand. Country very barren & appeared the same from the hills all round. Horses much in want of water. So we were compelled to retrace our steps, leaving Old Joe behind. Camp 75.
SEPTEMBER 4.
13 ms back on outward track to water at native camp, which we made a noon. The horses had been without water since the previous morning, 2 other horses were left some distance out.
SEPTEMBER 5.
In camp, as the horses were unable to proceed. Brockman & M Brown shot 3 kangaroos.
SEPTEMBER 6.
Mr. Gregory having started with two of the party, 6 horses & 16 days rations to the S.E. left 5 of us in depot camp at native water hole. B shot a rock kangaroo.
SEPTEMBER 7.
In camp.
SEPTEMBER 8.
Same (Sunday) Mr Brown returned at 8 p.m. for assistance as Mr. Gregory was obliged to fall back on depot for want of water, having left 2 horses to die, with rations packs &c; & he & Harding were alone, 18 miles out with about 1 pint of water each; & much fatigued.
SEPTEMBER 9.
Brown & Brockman started with first horses to Mr Gregory (with water &c.) James & self out after the horses they had turned adrift; we tracked them over some of the roughest country I ever saw but found them at last. The one I found had been 84 hours with only 2 quarts of water. -
Mr. G & party arrived at 7 p.m.
SEPTEMBER 10.
1 mile back on outward track for better camp.
SEPTEMBER 11.
6 miles on outward track to previous noon halt; when old Skueball detained us for the remainder of the day. We caught about 50 small fish in this tributary to the Oakover; which was named the Davis. Camp 78.
SEPTEMBER 12.
10 miles a little to the north of old track. Compelled to shot old Skueball; as we could not get him on by any possible means. I was away from the party most of the day; but made the camp; at the junction of the Davis & Oakover; about sundown. Camp 79.
SEPTEMBER 13.
7 miles down Oakover we saw some pretty good timber & came to a halt on a deep creek with excellent feed caught about 20 lbs of fish Camp 80.
SEPTEMBER 14.
14 miles down bed of river, passed the first place, we struck it at 10.00 a.m. & junction of large S. tributary at 11.30. its banks now present a most beautiful appearance, with plenty of feed & water. Camp 81. Lat 20° 59'.
SEPTEMBER 15.
Sunday. Enjoying a little of the "otium cum dignitate" often talked of; but seldom found (Thermometer 122 Degrees)
SEPTEMBER 16.
18 ms: N.W. Sown bed of Oakover, scenery very beautiful. Killed a large green sanke, about 6 feet long. Camp 82 Lat 20° 46'.
SEPTEMBER 17.
18 ms: W. by N. Our route today has been partly in river bed; & partly from bend to bend. On the plains we (d). observed hills resembling the ruins of old fortresses to the N. by E. Camp 83 Lat 20° 4'
SEPTEMBER 18.
Route as above (12 miles) Oakover joined the DeGrey at about 7 miles distant We passed some fine pools of water in both; fine feed. We caught about 30 lbs of fish. During my watch at 1.30 a.m. I heard low report like a big gun. Here I saw the first vampire. Camp 84.
SEPTEMBER 19
18 miles W. We shot 5 ducks Camp 85 Lat 20° 36'.
SEPTEMBER 20.
18 ms: W There appeared to be a considerable extent of good feeding land on large plain; as we followed down river for the last 2 or three days. We camped on one of the largest pools seen abounding in wild fowl & fish; of which we caught about 30 or more. Many ducks were seen at 11 a.m. in tributary & large flocks of pigeons.
Camp 86. Lat 20° 31'.
SEPTEMBER 21.
13 ms N.W. Soon after starting river received a tributary or two. large pools more frequent; with plenty of fish & fowl; of the former we caught about 40 lbs weight. We came on a camp of natives about sundown, who seemed rather inclined to show fight but after a little decided that discretion is the better part of valour; & ran away. Camp 87. Latitude 20° 25'.
SEPTEMBER 22.
1 m W. We moved to better feed. About noon the horses came galloping into the camp; and we heard natives shouting in pursuit; so we lost no time in answering & confronting them, which brought them to a halt. Mr G fired a ball at a tree; & as soon as they saw it strike they went off in quick time. Camp 88 Lat 20° 25'.
SEPTEMBER 23.
15 ms N.W. Over plains with much good feed. The Shaw joined the DeGrey at about 11 a.m. The bed of the former (Shaw) was about 300 yards wide, with plenty of water. We saw the track of many natives going down river. Breaker Inlet distant about 18 miles. Camp 89.
SEPTEMBER 24.
We remained in camp as Mr. Gregory wished to take a round of bearings. B & B shot 8 ducks (whistlers).
SEPTEMBER 25.
15 ms W. Course of DeGrey about same, deep loam on banks & extensive plain, with fine grass. Water below noon halt brackish; but obtained some fresh enough for use by digging. Camp 90.
SEPTEMBER 26.
4 ms: W. We moved to the other channel of the DeGrey; as our well had turned too salt in the night. The whole Island (called Ripon) or delta, is a plain with fine grass.
SEPTEMBER 27.
Mr. G out with two others; to inspect Breaker Inlet coast; found two channels of DeGrey meet, & form Ripon Island. (Brockman shot 12 ducks). McCourt shot a flamingo 6 feet high 7 ft 2 inches across wings, legs 32 inches long & red, plumage purple & white. (About 10 ducks were also shot).
SEPTEMBER 28.
Turner & Brockman brought in about 13 ducks & two waders with a lapel on their beaks; & claws on wings.
SEPTEMBER 29.
Sunday. All in camp. McCourt & self out shooting, & brought in 13 cockatoos & 3 ducks. Camp 91.
SEPTEMBER 30.
Route up river for a few miles; after which more to the west - noon halt at 10 m on deep branch of running out of DeGrey where party shot many ducks & caught plenty of fish, fine feed & ranges within a short distance Camp 92.
OCTOBER 1.
18 miles South. Struck sandy bed of stream, of considerable size at 9 a.m. Obtained water by digging at 10 a.m. again at noon, at 4 p.m. Also at 5 p.m. (in abundance for horses) Turner & Brockman very ill. Much triodia, sandy plain with little grass. Lat 20° 30' 30" Camp 93.
OCTOBER 2.
16 ms S. Description of country about as yesterday; procured water for horses in abundance by sinking in river bed at 11 a.m. followed river up all day. (river supposed to be the Strelley) Saw tracks of many natives in it; dug for water at night without success. Turner & Brockman still very unwell. Camp 94 Lat 20° 45'
OCTOBER 3.
18 miles s. we followed up south branch of river all day found water at about 9 a.m. in abundance in shallow pools in granite & sand, water very acceptable as it prevented us retracing our steps; water again a little before sundown, in small pools. Camp 95. Lat 20° 56' 119. 10 by account.
OCTOBER 4.
23 miles S.W. & W. At 8 a.m. came on water in abundance in river; also at 10 a.m. in small creek, we supposed we were about 14 miles from the Yule; but to our surprise Mr Gregory informed us, we were about 40 - by no means a very pleasant surprise, as we had but little water with us & that blazing hot; some of the party did not expect to find water between this and the Yule; for what reason I could not tell - at 3.30 found water in gully by digging; we watered our six horses in a hat; & I drank 5 quarts in about ½ an hour. -
Mr. Gregory would not allow the other horses to have water, though they had had none since 10 a.m., & we did not know where we should get any more, went on till after dark, without water, Mr. G. makes us about 20 miles from the Yule. Always receding it should be called the phantom river. Camp 96. Lat 21° 4'.
OCTOBER 5.
21 miles W. We started at 6.5 a.m. & travelled nearly 12 miles in 3 hours, when Lucy (the mare) knocked up, she was stripped & 2 hands & a horse left to bring her on. Bob gave up soon after & his load was put on Turner's horse & I lent mine to Turner as he was ill.
Many of the horses had not drunken since Thursday night & none since Friday at 10 a.m.
Soon after we reached the Yule the horses came up and dashed headlong into the pool, & it was a much as we could do to drag them out. - As is generally the case when many are in fault every one blamed every one else, & the affair terminated very satisfactorily in a general row. Bob was brought in at 2 p.m. & McCourt & I brought Lucy in at 10,.30 p.m. Only half the number for sentry tonight. C 97.
OCTOBER 6.
½ mile down river (Sunday) to old camp 57 as the feed is better. Bn shot 8 teal & 4 ducks.
OCTOBER 7.
In camp to rest horses. Shot 4 ducks & 2 teal.
OCTOBER 8.
10 miles west on old track to depot. Trying a new plan with horses, instead of starting early, starting late, when they will be full of feed & water. 4 natives came & made a speech & told us to go away. Camp 98.
OCTOBER 9.
18 miles. On old track. Horses travelling very fresh, taking into consideration the heat; (& they having no water till ll a.m.) when each had 2 quarts, which we carried for them. Arrived at camp 55 Eastern Sherlock about noon. Horses much fatigued.
OCTOBER 10.
15 miles W. From old depot (Camp 55) to Sunday (52) Camp, where Turner & I ate the eagle. About 6 hours coming. Left old Lucy on the plains.
OCTOBER 11.
About 16 miles W on old track to Lake Plenty down Eastern Sherlock. Mr. G. shot 5 ducks Brown 3. McCourt & self about 35 lbs of fish, in camp for remainder of day. Eleven (11) natives accompanied us and stole some of my traps. The natives who for good conduct were allowed close to our camp, began to be very troublesom, & stole my towel, soap, comb toothbrush etc last evening I went to their camp early & found the brush & comb; but was obliged to put up with the loss of the other articles; as the fellow who had them was away; though I made most unmistakable signs; of my thorough disapproval of their conduct. When I returned to camp the natives there did not seem pleased with the recovery of the things; & commenced burning the grass around the camp; as they did not desist when told to do so Mr. G. fired a shot at them, at a distance, which had the effect of driving them off.
OCTOBER 13.
Sunday: 12 miles W. On route to Kangaroo Pool, started at 4 p.m. as it would be cooler, & the horses watered fully; camped on plain with grass near (no water) Black Hill the position of which is shown on the charts. Camp 99.
OCTOBER 14.
19 miles (8 on old track) at 6 & at 7 a.m. struck the G George with permanent water. made old camp (50) at 9a.m. Kangaroo Pool. Started at 4, & camped at (Camp 100) (e). 8 p.m. on grassy plain near Harding Passed Pyramid at 7 a.m. & old noon halt at 5 p.m.
OCTOBER 15.
We made the Harding in 6 miles; & remained the day to recruit the horses; as we had no certainty of the water; for the 30 miles to the Bay. Numbers of large bats or vampires were flying about 130 of them.
OCTOBER 16.
10 miles on old track, started at 4 p.m. & came to a halt at 8.30 on small branch of Nicol River, with a little water in it; the last to the Bay. I lost my blanket & clothes, in passing through some of the thickets; went back, & tracked for some miles, by moonlight without success. Returned at 12 & had 30 mins watch & 30 mins sleep; & then started again.
OCTOBER 17.
(About 26 miles) Started at 2 a.m. with a fine noon to light us - at 7 a.m. sighted "Dolphin", breakfast at 8 & watered horses (which we carried with us) & arrived in old camp in Hearson Cove at 1 p.m. Very very thankful to find all right; & the old ship safe: in my opinion the conclusion of an expedition is the best part of it. -
OCTOBER 18.
In camp. -
OCTOBER 19.
Same. Mr. Gregory started in life boat to Cape Lambert at 4 a.m.
OCTOBER 20.
In camp.
OCTOBER 21.
Same - Party returned from Cape Lambert; & moved ship.
OCTOBER 22.
Shipped 8 horses swimming them 1¼ miles.
OCTOBER 23.
Swam off remaining 6 horses; & under weigh at 4 p.m. Wind from W (light) stood out between Huay & Delamore Islands.
NOVEMBER 8.
(f).Sighted Cape Naturaliste.
NOVEMBER 9.
At 10 a.m. off Rottnest Island; & at noon anchored in Gage's Roads. When I immediately obtained my discharge & landed with Mr. Gregory.