Scrambles amongst the Alps (1871)
by Edward Whymper
1442101Scrambles amongst the Alps1871Edward Whymper

FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865.

"THE TANGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE ACCIDENT"

See Chap. XXII.

SCRAMBLES

AMONGST THE ALPS IN THE

YEARS 1860-69

BY

EDWARD WHYMPER

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked together in a kind of necessary connection. — Livv.

LONDON

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET

1871

All rights are reserved.

CONTENTS

1860

CHAPTER I.

Pages 1-13

CHAPTER II.

THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ—THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINÉ—MISTAKES IN THEIR IDENTIFICATION—EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX—INTRODUCTION TO MONSIEUR REYNAUD—THE "ASSOCIATION ALIMENTAIRE" OF GRENOBLE—MEETING WITH MACDONALD—CROSS THE COL DE LAUTARET—NATIONAL SENTIMENTSWE ENGAGE A GUIDE—START FOR PELVOUX—PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS—MASSACRE OF THE VAUDOISFIRST NIGHT OUT—WE ARE REPULSED—ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD—THIRD NIGHT OUT—TORRENTS ON FIRE—FALLING ROCKS—ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX—THE PYRAMID—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—ON FLEAS—EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO—VALUE OF THE PASSPORT SYSTEM—DESERTERS—CAMP ON AN ANT-HILL—ST. VERAN—PRIMITIVE MANNERS—NATURAL PILLARS—ARRIVE AT BRIANCON

14-45

CHAPTER III.

CHAPTER IV.

INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL—SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN—RIDGES OF THE MATTERHORNEARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN—ATTEMPT BY THE MESSRS. PARKER—ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL—ARRIVE AT BREIL—UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE MATTERHORN—THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT—THE 'GREAT STAIRCASE'—WE DECIDE TO CAMP ON THE COL DU LION—GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING STONES—LIGHT AND SHADE—THE 'CHIMNEY'—DEFEATED—A COOL PROCEEDING

80-95

1862

CHAPTER V.

MR. KENNEDY'S WINTER ATTEMPT—BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN—THE THEODULE PASS—MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREILON ALPINE TENTS—MACDONALD AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN—NARROW ESCAPE OF KRONIG—VIOLENT WIND TURNS US BACK—ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND START AGAIN—THE 'GREAT TOWER'—PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO RETURN—BAD WEATHER—SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORNPIONEERS OF VEGETATION—VIEW FROM THE TENT—A SOLITARY BIVOUAC—MONTE VISO SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT MILES' DISTANCE—ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS—CLIMBING CLAW—FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE TENT—DIFFICULTY AND DANGERON FOOLHARDINESS—I ATTAIN A GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND NEARLY COME TO GRIEF—MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—DEFEATED AGAIN BY WEATHER—THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH ATTEMPT—DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES—TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES OFF THE CARRELS—A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN—TYNDALL IS REPULSED-CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINÉ

96-130

1863

CHAPTER VI.

THE DOUANE—"BUT WHAT IS THIS?"—DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER—EXPLANATION OF TYNDALL'S REPULSEROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE—ASCEND THE CIMES BLANCHES—WE DECEIVE A GOAT—NEW PASS TO ZERMATT (BREUILJOCH)—AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION-GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS—RESULTING FORMS (ROCHES MOUTONNÉES)—MOTION OF GLACIERS PREVENTS THE ICE FROM BEING

FORCED INTO HOLLOWS—PROJECTIONS ALONE SUFFER—CONSEQUENT FLATTENING OF ROCK-SURFACES—ROCHES NIVELEES—STRIATIONS AND THEIR MEANING—VIOLENT GLACIAL ACTION IN ICELAND—ROTUNDITY OF ROCHES MOUTONNEES PROVES A SMALL AMOUNT OF EROSION—ON LEE-SIDES—THE EROSIVE POWER OF A GLACIER CONSTANTLY DIMINISHES—CONSERVATION OF ROCKS—SEILER'S DISINTERESTEDNESS—THE MATTERHORN CLIFFSEXTRAORDINARY ACCIDENT TO A CHAMOIS—COL DE VALPELLINE—THE MASTER OF PRERAYEN—ATTEMPT TO ASCEND DENT D'ERIN (D'HERENS)—THE VA CORNÈRE PASS—ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN—SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—ON PANORAMIC VIEWSGOUFFRE DES BUSSERAILLES—AN ENTERPRISING INNKEEPER

131-168

CHAPTER VII.

EXTREMES MEET—THUNDER AND LIGHTNING—ECHOES OF THUNDER—GREAT ROCK—FALLS DURING THE NIGHT—DEFEATED BY THE WEATHER—MYSTERIOUS MISTS

169-178

1864

CHAPTER VIII.

MICHEL CROZ—COL DE VALLOIRES—THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE—WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM—COL DE MARTIGNARE—ASCENT OF THE AIG. DE LA SAUSSE—THE MEIJE—BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJEMELCHIOR ANDEREGG—LA GRAVE—THE BRÈCHE IS WONTHE VALLON DES ETANÇONS

179-200

CHAPTER IX.

BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE LA BONNE PIERRE—DISSOLVING VIEWS—DRYNESS OF THE AIR—TOPOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL DAUPHINE ALPS—FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS—A MIGHTY AVALANCHE—OUR ASCENT OF THE FINAL PEAKON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITSLE JEU NE VAUT PAS LA CHANDELLE—SHATTERED RIDGE—ALMER'S LEAP—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—A WARNING

201-221

CHAPTER X.

CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES—ARRIVAL OF REYNAUDON SNOW COULOIRS—SUMMIT OF THE COL—EXCITING DESCENT—REYNAUD COMES OVER THE SCHRUNDTHE LAST OF DAUPHINÉ

222-231

CHAPTER XI.

MAPS OF MONT BLANC—MR. ADAMS-REILLY—OUR COMPACT—THE PEAKS OF THE MONT BLANC RANGE—ACROSS THE COL DE TRIOLET—A MINIATURE ASCENT—REILLY ADVOCATES PATIENCE—BIVOUAC ON MONT SUC—ASCENT OF AIG. DE TRÉLATÊTE—THE MORAINE OF THE MIAGE—ON MORAINES IN GENERAL—ERRONEOUS VIEWS RESPECTING THEM—MORAINES IN GREENLAND—OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO ASCEND AIG. D'ARGENTIÈRE—A CONCEALED CAVERN—SUCCESS AT LAST—MR. REILLY'S MAP
232-252

CHAPTER XII.

SWISS MENDICANTS—NIGHT ON THE ARPITETTA ALP—A PERILOUS PATH—ICE-AVALANCHE—SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS—CROZ DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF—THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT
253-262

1865

CHAPTER XIII.

ON CHOICE OF ROUTES—REGRETS—ZINAL—ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER—EFFECTS OF SUN AND FROST—GREAT RIDGES SUFFER MOST—POINTS OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ATMOSPHERIC AND GLACIER EROSION—ABRICOLLA
263-273

CHAPTER XIV.

LESLIE STEPHEN—KENNEDY'S ASCENT—ON BERGSCHRUNDS—UNWELCOME ATTENTIONS—A RACE FOR LIFE—BENIGHTED—A SURPRISE
274-280

CHAPTER XV.

A LATE START AND THE RESULT—BEWILDERED—RETURN TO ABRICOLLA—CROSS COL D'HÉRENS TO ZERMATT—ASCEND THE THEODULHORN—NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE MATTERHORN—DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE—STRATIFICATION—DIP OF THE BEDS—TRY ANOTHER ROUTE—"SAUVE QUI PEUT"—BEATEN AGAIN.
281-294

CHAPTER XVI.

THE BOUQUETIN—ON CRÉTINISM AND GOÎTRE—CAUSES OF THEIR ORIGIN—POSSIBILITY OF CHECKING PROGRESS OF CRÉTINISM—THE ANCIENT GLACIER OF AOSTA AND THE MORAINES OF IVREA—RAMSAY'S EROSION THEORY—TYNDALL's THEORY—CONTRADICTIONS—CRITICISM OF THE THEORIES—CONCLUSIONS—SUMMIT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES—WE START AN AVALANCHE
295-345

CHAPTER XVII.

CONFUSION OF IDEAS—A MIDNIGHT START—SUMMIT OF THE PASS—EXTRAORDINARY ICE-WALL—MANNER OF ITS DESCENT—ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE—ON ICE-SLOPES AND THEIR SAFETY—CRAMPONS—ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX
346-352

CHAPTER XVIII.

CROZ LEAVES US—CHRISTIAN ALMER—SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE—STRUCTURE OF GLACIERS—THE "VEINED STRUCTURE"—ORIGIN OF VEINS IN GLACIERS—ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE—ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—STORMS COME ON—A WORTHY PORTER—THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX
353-365

CHAPTER XIX.

THE COL DU GÉANT—THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE—EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX TO CORMAYEUR—GLISSADING—PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT BLANC
366-369

CHAPTER XX.

FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED—NOBLE PANORAMA—ON CONCEALED CREVASSES—GUIDES' OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPEON THE USE AND ABUSE OF THE ROPEALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN—ENGAGE THE CARRELS—THEIR DEFECTIONTHE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH—ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS DOUGLAS—MEETING WITH CROZ AND HUDSON
370-383

CHAPTER XXI.

CHARLES HUDSON—CAMP ON THE EAST FACE—CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY—ASCENT OF THE EASTERN FACE—CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE—ARRIVAL AT SUMMITDISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS—ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL—MARVELLOUS PANORAMA
384-394

CHAPTER XXII.

ORDER OF THE DESCENT—A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE—HADOW SLIPS—DEATH OF CROZ, HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS—TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS—THE BROKEN ROPE—AN APPARITION—AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—SEARCH FOR AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES—OFFICIAL EXAMINATION—THE END
395-408

APPENDIX.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Drawings were made on the Wood by

H. J. Boot, C. Johnson, J. Mahoney, J. W. North, P. Skelton, W. G. Smith, and C. J. Staniland;

and were Engraved by J. W. and Edward Whymper.

* From Photographs. ** Designs.

FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS

1. Frontispiece.
2. To face page  35
* 3. "  52
4. "  83
5. "  84
6.
'The Chimney'
" 119
7.
"In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell"
" 120
** 8.
A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862)
" 127
9.
The Crags of the Matterhorn, during the Storm, Midnight, Aug. 10, 1863
" 175
** 10.
Descending Western Arête of the Pointe des Ecrins
" 217
** 11.
"We saw a toe—it seemed to belong to Moore; we saw Reynaud a flying body"
" 229
** 12.
The Summit of the Moming Pass in 1864
" 259
** 13.
The Club-Room of Zermatt in 1864
" 262
14.
The Bergschrund on the Dent Blanche in 1865
" 276
15.
The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg
" 285
16.
Sections of the Matterhorn
" 288
* 17.
The Grandes Jorasses from the Val Ferret
" 344
18.
The Summit of the Col Dolent
" 347
19.
Geological Section of the Matterhorn
"  425
20.
Natural Pinnacles (formed out of an old Moraine) in the Valley of the Durance
"  431
21.
Vertical Section of the Snow on the Col de Valpelline, August 1866 (Folding Plate)
At the end of the Volume.


IN THE TEXT.

    PAGE
1.
Beachy Head
1
2.
The Devil of Notre Dame
2
** 3.
Mules
3
** 4.
A Curé in Difficulties
7
** 5.
Which is the Brute?
8
6.
At the St. Bernard
9
** 7.
"Garibaldi!"
12
* 8.
Briançon
14
9.
Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée
21
10.
In the Val d'Alefred
23
11.
The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise
24
12.
Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux
28
* 13.
Portrait of R. J. S. Macdonald
31
14.
Outline to show Route up Mont Pelvoux
33
15.
The Blanket Bag
42
16.
Natural Pillar near Molines
44
** 17.
Crossing Mont Cenis
46
** 18.
The Little Postilion
47
19.
The Centre Rail on a Curve
49
20.
Section of the Fell Railway
49
* 21.
The Covered Ways of the Fell Railway
52
22.
The Centre Rail Break
53
23.
Tubes Conveying the Compressed Air to the Mont Cenis Tunnel, and Joints of the Same
64
24.
Transverse Section of the Mont Cenis Tunnel
65
25.
Cross Section of the Advanced Gallery
70
26.
Longitudinal Section of the End of the Advanced Gallery
71
* 27.
Portrait of J. J. Bennen
86
* 28.
Portrait of Jean-Antoine Carrel
89
29.
The Col du Lion: looking towards the Tête du Lion
91
30.
Diagram to show manner of fastening Tent-poles
100
31.
Alpine Tent
100
32.
Climbing Claw
110
33.
Rope and Ring
111
** 34.
At Breill (Giomein)
122
35.
The Matterhorn from Breil
128
** 36.
"But what is this?"
131
37.
An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val Tournanche
135
* 38.
Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below the Gorner Glacier
140
39.
Striations produced by Glacier-action
141
40.
Sections of Roches Moutonnées and Roches Nivelées
144
41.
Diagram of Weathered Rock
151
** 42.
"Carrel lowered me down"
163
* 43.
Portrait of Monsieur Favre
176
* 44.
Crossing the Channel
178
* 45.
Portrait of Michel-Auguste Croz
180
46.
Plan to show Route
183
47.
The Aiguilles d'Arve from above Chalets of Rieu Blanc
185
* 48.
Portrait of Melchior Anderegg
193
49.
Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc.
195
50.
Diagram to show Angle of Summit of Meije, as seen from La Grave
197
* 51.
The Vallon des Etançons
199
52.
Map of the Central Dauphiné Alps
202
53.
The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier
211
54.
Outline to show Route up Pointe des Ecrins
212
55.
Fragment from the Summit of the Pointe des Ecrins
215
** 56.
A Night with Croz
220
** 57.
A Snow Couloir
225
** 58.
Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day
241
59.
Our Camp on Mont Suc
242
60.
Ice-Avalanche on the Moming Pass
258
61.
Facsimile of a Letter from Croz
267
62.
Part of the Southern Ridge of the Grand Cornier
269
63.
Part of the Northern Ridge of the Grand Cornier
270
* 64.
Portrait of Leslie Stephen
274
* 65.
Portrait of T. S. Kennedy
280
66.
Diagrams to show Dip of Strata on the Matterhorn
287
* 67.
My Tent-bearer—The Hunchback
292
* 68.
The Bouquetin
297
69.
A Crétin of Aosta
300
70.
Imaginary Section of a Glacier
333
71.
Quartz-vein
336
72.
My Ice-axe
349
73.
Kennedy Ice-axe
350
74.
Another form of Ice-axe
350
75.
Crampon
351
* 76.
Portrait of Christian Almer
354
* 77.
On the Mer de Glace
355
* 78.
Ice-Pinnacles on the Mer de Glace
356
* 79.
Western Side of the Col de Talèfre
366
** 80.
Glissading
368
** 81.
The Wrong Way to use a Rope on Glacier
374
** 82.
The Right Way to use a Rope on Glacier
375
83.
"Croz! Croz!! Come here"
390
84.
The Summit of the Matterhorn
392
85.
The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865
395
86.
Rope broken on the Matterhorn
398
* 87.
Portrait of Monsieur Seiler
401
88.
Manilla Rope broken on the Matterhorn
403
89.
The 'Second' Rope broken on the Matterhorn
405
** 90.
The End
408


MAPS.

To be placed at the end of the Volume.

1. General Route Map.

2. The Valley of Zermatt, and the Central Pennine Alps.

3. The Valpelline, the Valtournanche, and the Central Pennine Alps.

4. The Chain of Mont Blanc.

5. The Matterhorn and its Glaciers (In Colours).

The body of the Work is printed by R. Clark, Edinburgh; the separate Plates
have been printed by the Author.




errata.

Page 20, line from top, "Col de Lantaret" to read "Col de Lautaret."
Page 29, line 13-15 from top "Pie des Archines" to read "Pic de Arcines."
Page 45, note† "See Chap. 23" to read "See Appendix."
Page 147, line 1 from top, "early and coarse" to read "early, or a coarse."
Page 215, note, "referred to in Chapter xx." to read "referred to in Chapter xxi.

This work was published before January 1, 1929, and is in the public domain worldwide because the author died at least 100 years ago.

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