CONCLUSION.
HAVING thus far proceeded in my laborious, my romantic, and even my Quixote undertaking, the double tour of the Wall; I shall close the work with some remarks upon the Authors who have gone before me; upon the mode of building the Wall, and the nature of the stone. I shall give a concise list of the Stations and the Intermediate places, from the East to the West end of this grand line. I shall notice the inscriptions; state my return, and the journal of the day.
I am more confirmed in my opinion, that none of the writers ever passed the whole length of the Wall; that very few have even seen it; but that the first Historian, however ignorant, like the first horse in a team, was implicitly followed by the rest.
An old Author says, "Hadrian was the first who drew a rampart of prodigious bulk, as high as a mountain!" This proves he never saw it, nor knew its history.
Another evidently mistakes Antoninus's work in Scotland, for Severus's in England.
A third says, "The Wall was begun by Hadrian, and finished by Severus." This supposes only one work.
A fourth says, "Severus only repaired Hadrian's Wall."
A fifth, "The Wall was thirty-five miles long."
A sixth, "One hundred and twenty-two miles long.'
Even the venerable Bede "cannot allow that Severus built a Wall, because Wall employs a work of stone." Can we suppose, that he ever saw, thought, or inquired about it? although a neighbour to the place. He, and Gildas, both observe, "that, when the Romans quitted the Island, they advised the Britons to build a Wall from sea to sea, to keep out the enemy;" which shews how little they knew of the matter. Yet these are reputed our best antient writers.
Again. "They made the Wall between two straits, or bays of the sea, a thousand miles!" Surely this must be charged to the printer.
Some authors have amused themselves and readers with a brass pipe running through the internal part of the Wall, to convey intelligence.
From the above absurdities, and fifty more which I could select, can a reader form a regular set of ideas, as he peruses a work? The eye of the Historian should see; and it rests with him to cause the reader to see as he does.
From the destruction of so large a part of these magnificent works, I fear, I shall be the last Author who shall describe them. Plunder is the order of the day. I wished to see Severus's works in a superior style, but am an age too late. They have suffered more during the last century, than in the fifteen before it.
THE BUILDING.
SOME authors say, "Hadrian's Wall" as they term it, "is built of earth and stone:" but, I believe there was no more stone than was promiscuously thrown out, with the soil of the neighbouring ditch, of which it is composed.
Again: "that Severus's Wall is faced with casing-stones on the outside, and the internal part filled up with stones placed in an oblique direction." Part of this remark is true. The stones are faced on both sides of the Wall, and very often shaped in a diagonal line, that is, like the key stone of an arch, and always laid with the end to the front, although three or four feet long, the narrow and broad end alternately, by way of dove-tail; and the internal part not laid at all, but stones of all sizes promiscuously thrown in, and the mortar as promiscuously thrown in among them.
I tried the strength of the mortar, and found it equal to that of the stone.
STONE.
I SHALL find it difficult to support an opinion when all the world, from Bede to the present day are against me; to which must be added that of the whole country. But, as it is not the fashion, as in a former day, to burn a man for his opinion, allow me to state mine, and I will attend to yours.
All agree, "that the stone of which Severus's Wall was built is not a native of the country, for the grit differs."—But no evidence is produced where it was brought from.
I observed only two kinds of stone in the whole line; and with both, the country abounds. That towards the East has a whitish covering, like unbleached linen, is of a flinty texture, and when broken is nearly the colour of lead.
That towards the West is of a softer nature, brown, a little the colour of saffron. Of this the cathedral and walls of Carlisle are composed; and the Wall of Severus seems to have been made of these. They seem, also, to be the same kind as those I saw stocked up at St. Oswald's, at Hare-hill, and at Boulness. I observed too, several places where stone had been got. Besides, it is not easy to see how they could bring from a distance so vast a load; neither the reason, when there was abundance which suited at home. Perhaps this is one of those wonders which takes possession of the human mind, ever fond, and ever seeking after the wonderful.
INSCRIPTIONS.
I HAVE treated but little of Roman inscriptions, or of Legions, and Cohorts, for several reasons. They are all totally vanished from the Wall and Stations where they were placed. Some few have been preserved by the connoisseur, in dusty lumber rooms, which seldom see light; but more are converted into slabs, steps, and lintels, others for viler purposes; but all neglected, and many more destroyed.
The few that remain are nearly obliterated; and, were they not, they are written in half characters, and in Latin, not easy to understand; and, being unacquainted with the Latin tongue, it might seem presumption in me to attempt it. Besides, with what success could I explain that, about which the Learned themselves differ? And, if they could be explained, what do they amount to? only that such a regiment, or company, resided in a certain place, when all are equally unknown; and to the generality of readers, nothing is more dry. When he has laboured through a parcel of miserable letters, what is he the wiser?
I allow, a stone of such antiquity becomes a curiosity; but a piece of antiquity, when not understood, sinks in value; and still more, if not of moment. The hungry inquirer, who can relish a dry husk, may find in Warburton all which have been discovered in latter ages, to the number of one hundred and fifty-two; also in my friend Mr. Gough's edition of Camden's Britannia.
I design this work a present to a Bookseller. As it will be cheap to him, I wish it cheap to the purchaser. I would have it sweet as the apple; but, if I load it with parings, like putting garlic into his repast, it will swell the book, the price, and the disgust.
I SHALL concisely state, from the Wall's end to Boulness, every Station as it occurs; with the intermediate places through or by which this grandest of all British monuments passed.
1. Wall's End. — By Cousen's house, now Baddle's — Slate's house — Stile in the Valley — Old Walker's-hill — Byker's-hill — A windmill — Crosses the road thirty yards, North of the Toll-gate — Ewsburn — Redburns — Another windmill— Pandon Gate.
2. Newcastle — Near the West gate — On the right towards the Toll-gate — Crosses the road, and runs twenty yards left of the Quarry house — Elswick windmill — Fenham Lodge — Mr. Orde's house — Mr. Bowes's house.
3. Benwell Hill — Mr. Orde's other house — Denton Dean — Chapel houses — Mr. Mountague's house on the left — Wallbottle — Newburn Dean — Throcklow.
4. Rutchester — High Seat — Harlow hill — Wall houses — Sir Edward Blacket's — Halton Shields.
5. Halton Chester — Port Gate — St. Oswald — North Tyne river.
6. Walwick Chester, or East Chester — Walwick — Towertay.
7. Carrowburgh — Carrow — Shewen shields — Ethel's Chair — Cat's Cover — Busy Gap.
8. House Steads — Haltwhistle Burn.
9. Little Chesters — Wall Green.
10. Great Chesters — Cock-Mount-Hill — Wall Town — Wintergap Cross.
11. Carvoron — Tippall river — Thirlwell Castle — Stone Gap — Willoford — Poltross — Irthing.
12. Burdoswald — Midgham foot — Wallbowers — The Banks — Hare Hill — Bank Head — Birchshaw — Randilands — High-Wall-Town.
13. Cambeck Fort, or rather House Steads — Irthington — Newton — Comeranton — Old-Wall-Town — Wall Head.
14. Watch Cross — Bleatern — Wallby — Taraby.
15. Stanwix — Cross the Eden — North of Carlisle Castle — Kirkanders — Beaumont.
16. Burgh — On the right a windmill — South of the Marsh.
17. Drumburgh — Glaston — Kirklands.
18. Boulness.
RETURN.
I NOW quit the favourite Wall, perhaps for ever; where I entered a stranger, and returned well known: for many knew me who had never before seen me; they had heard of the man in black, with his green umbrella and black pouch; and I have reason to think, from the treatment I met with, I could travel the Wall a third time, with the expence only of a few shillings.
I also quitted it at Carlisle, where I first entered, after crossing the kingdom twice, between the German ocean and the Irish sea.
In the evening, after walking twenty-eight miles, I approached Hesketh, ten miles South of Carlisle, and seeing two or three signs before me, I asked a person "which of them could furnish me with the best lodging?" "There is none that will suit you. Go to the upper village;" where I succeeded.
The next day I passed through Penrith, Clifton, Lord Lonsdale's grounds, which are not so beautiful as they might easily be made, and stopping at the next village to dine, the name I think is Thrimby, I found the larder thinly stored. There were no meat, porter, cyder, or liquors; and, as I could not drink ale, I gladly accepted a dish of milk.
A landlady is not apt to smile upon the man who is unfriendly to the tap. I remarked, "A thunder-storm is coming on: I will stay a little longer." She replied, "You may get to Shap (four miles) before it comes. Besides, there is a farm-house, two miles off, where you may shelter." This was a hint to depart. I paid sixpence. She was giving me change. I told her "to keep the groat,"— she smiled; and I might have staid longer.
Before I arrived at the two-mile house I was caught in the storm. I entered the fold-yard, with a view to secure myself in one of the outbuildings. "I will beg leave, Madam, to shelter a little while."
"The storm," says she, "is over," casting an eye upwards.
This was a second hint to depart, which I obeyed. A terrible rain ensued.
I was directed to a public-house in Shap, I think the Hound, "where I would be well accommodated;" but, when I arrived, I found about half the building was taking down for repairs. They treated me kindly, and promised a bed; but, when the hour of rest came, I was taken through the rain to a neighbour's, where they had provided one for me. I found it was upon a solid ground floor, where every thing felt cold about me; the bed perfectly damp. I was obliged to rise, half dress, and lie between the blankets.
I left a shilling upon the table, and retreated at four the next morning, without seeing one soul; nor do I know whether the house was inhabited.
SHAP FELLS.
I IMMEDIATELY entered upon these Fells, a region which surprized one. During six miles did I wander over a most barren and solitary desert, without the sight of a human being, a house, cottage, tree, or even an acre of cultivated ground. The freehold could not be worth half a crown an acre. Had the proprietor been there, he would have blushed to own the property. Had George the Third been there, he would have been sorry he was King over such a region.
All the prospect before me was only hills upon hills; and yet this could not be the place to which David referred, when he said, from the Almighty, "The cattle upon a thousand hills are mine;" for, although there are a thousand hills, yet all the cattle I saw upon them were not worth fifty pounds. It was more probably the place where Jove and the Giants fought, and where they pelted him with mountains; for there was ammunition enough.
My road led me through Kendall, a large, handsome, populous town, and in a fertile country. The castle stands in a beautiful spot; but is, like others, in ruins.
Slept at Burton, twenty miles; and the next morning breakfasted with my little family, at Hest Bank, nine miles.
We stayed in this delightful place four days; and were still more delighted with the company we found there. If to enjoy social conversation with freedom, and with sensible people; if fascinating mirth attends the hours as they pass; and if friendship rises to the highest pitch to which it can rise in so short a period, constitute happiness; I must rate these four days among the happiest of my life. These agreeable associates were from Kirkby Lonsdale. I am sorry delicacy hides their names.
By easy marches I arrived at Birmingham, Aug, 7, 1801; after a loss, by perspiration, of one stone of animal weight; an expenditure of forty guineas, a lapse of thirty-five days, and a walk of six hundred and one miles.
As so long and solitary a journey on foot was, perhaps, never wantonly performed by a man of seventy-eight, it excited the curiosity of the town; which caused me frequently to be stopped in the street to ascertain the fact. I shall, "to satisfy all whom it may concern," give the journal of the day, in the following table.
THE JOURNAL.
| 1801. | Slept at | Miles. | Addit. | Total. | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| July 4, | Sat. | Lichfield | 16 | ||
| 5, | Sun. | Stone | 22 | ||
| 6, | M. | Hulmes Chapel | 25 | ||
| 7, | Tu. | Warrington | 18 | 1 | 19 |
| 8, | W. | Liverpool | 18 | 3 | 21 |
| 9, | Th. | Ditto. | |||
| 10, | F. | Tarlton | 21 | ||
| 11, | Sat. | Garstang | 21 | ||
| 12, | Sun. | Haysham | 17 | 3 | 20 |
| 13, | M. | Ditto. | |||
| 14, | Tu. | Hest Bank | 6 | ||
| 15, | W. | Newby Bridge | 18 | 1 | 19 |
| 16, | Th. | Ambleside | 15 | 1 | 16 |
| 17, | F. | Penrith | 25 | ||
| 18, | Sat. | Stanwix | 20 | 1 | 21 |
| 19, | Sun. | Burgh (return from Boulness) | 22 | ||
| 20, | M. | High Wallton | 15 | ||
| 21, | Tu. | Twice Brewed | 14 | ||
| 22, | W. | Harlow Hill | 22 | ||
| 23, | Th. | Newcastle | 17 | 1 return | 18 |
| 24, | F. | Walwick Chesters | 22 | ||
| 25, | Sat. | Glyn Velt | 18 | ||
| 26, | Sun. | Hesketh | 28 | ||
| 27, | M. | Shap | 19 | ||
| 28, | Tu. | Burton | 29 | ||
| 29, | W. | Hest Bank | 9 | ||
| 30, | Th. | Ditto | |||
| 31, | F. | Ditto | 3 | 3 | |
| Aug. 1, | Sat. | Ditto | |||
| 2, | Sun. | Preston | 25 | 1 | 26 |
| 3, | M. | Wigan | 17 | ||
| 4, | Tu. | Knutsford | 25 | ||
| 5, | W. | Newcastle under Line | 24 | ||
| 6, | Th. | Wolsley Bridge | 21 | ||
| 7, | F. | Saltley, near Birmingham | 26 | ||
| 601 |
