The Rambler in Mexico

by Charles Joseph Latrobe

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THE RAMBLER

 

IN MEXICO

 

MDCCCXXXIV.

 

BY CHARLES JOSEPH LATROBE,

AUTHOR OF THE "ALPENSTOCK," ETC.

 

"Cœlum, non animum mutant qui trans mare currunt."

Hor. Epist.

 

NEW-YORK:

HARPER &, BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF-STREET.

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1836.

 

CONTENTS.

 

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Letter I.—The Gulf of Mexico—The Goelette Halcyon—Her Passengers and Crew—The Bravo—Sunday on board—A Calm—The Roadstead of Tampico—Prognostics of coming Evil—Morning before a Storm—The Custom House Boat—The Norte—The Goelette is driven out to Sea—The Halcyon returns to her anchoring Ground—The Bar—The River Panuco—Arrival at Tampico—A second Norte.page 7

Letter II.—First Hours in New Spain—Description of Tampico—Inhabitants—Character of the Mexican—The European—The Indian—Military—The Fonda de la Bolza—Pastimes of the Inhabitants—Scenery of the Environs—The Bluff and the Rivers—Juliano—Insect hunting—A Cure of Enthusiasm—The Garapatos—A third Norte—Return of the Halcyon—Vexatious Detention—Pueblo Viejo—La Mira—La Fuente—The arriero Ant—We quit the Coast—Tampico Alta22

Letter III.—Halt at Tampico Alta—Physical Geography of New Spain—The Tierras calientes, Tierras templadas, and Tierras frias—Description of the Party—The Masters and Servants, Juliano, Miguel, Don Juan Espindola, Don Gaetano—Scenery—La Messa—"Aimable et execrable Tampico"—Osuhuama, an Indian Village—The Rancho—The Indian Cabin—The Inmates—Curious Scene—Indian Guile—Santa Catherina—The Hacienda—Chicontepec—A storm—Miguel, a borracho—Vale of the Sierra Madre—The Cura's Seat—The River Canada—Great Defile of the Canada; Features of—Splendid Scenery—Tlacolula—The Cura—The Mules—Miguel and Juliano—The Monte Penulco—The Tierras templadas38

Letter IV.—Scenery of the Monte Penulco—The Tierras templadas—Juliano's Sickness and Defection—Zacualtipan; Description of—The Arriero's Home—A Day's Rest—Ruins—An awkward Adventure—San Bernardo—The Agave Americana—The Cactus—Singular Scenery—Rio Oquilcalco—Rio Grande—The Mountain of San Ammonica—Hacienda Zoquital—Circuit to visit Regla—Puebla Grande de Mittan—Hacienda and Barranca of Regla—The Amalgamation Works—Real del Monte Company—The basaltic Rocks—The Cascade—Dangerous nocturnal Ascent to Real del Monte—The Town; Scenery in the Vicinity of—A Visit to the Mines—The various Shafts—Mode of working—An Indian Tale—Route from the Mines to the Capital—San Mateo Grande—The City of Mexico—Features of the neighbouring Plains59

Letter V.—The City of Mexico—Dispersion of our Train, and Subsequent Arrangements—Pursuits of the Trio—Description of the Valley and City—The Environs of the City—The Calzadas—The Aqueducts—The Route of San Augustin—Optical Deception—Hacienda San Antonio; Description of—The Pedigral—Culture of the Maguey—Buildings of the Hacienda—San Augustin; View from its Environs—The Scenery of the Valley—Volcanoes and volcanic Phenomena, present and past—Routes from the Valley of Mexico—Tacuba—San Cosmo—Apopotla—The Cupressus disticha—Chapultepec—Guadaloupe—The Patron Saint of Mexico—Nuestra Senora de los Remideos—The Climate of Mexico—Earthquakes80

Letter VI.—Civilities to Foreigners in the City of Mexico—The Opinions of Foreigners—The French Barber—The Belgian Host—The German Saddler—The Corps d'Opera—The Palaces—The Canals—The Market—The Alguazil—Shops—The upper Classes, male and female—The Alameda—The Paseo de las Vigas—Military—Mexican Habits—State of the Country and of Parties—The Holy Week—Influx of Strangers of all Classes to Mexico—The Plaza Mayor—The Booths—Holy Thursday—Church visiting—Popular Amusements—The Rattles—Judas Iscariot—Processions on Good Friday—Saturday before Easter—The Termination of the Holy Week—Christianity in Mexico—Public Institutions—The Museum—Antiquities—The ancient Mexican Calendar—Antiquities106

Letter VII.—Excursion in the Environs—The Calzada—Penon Viejo—Lake Tezcuco—Hacienda, Chapingo, Huejutla—The Baño di Montezuma—Tezcosingo—Tezcuco—The Contador—Remains of the Mastodon—Singular Fact—San Juan Teotihuacan—The Houses of the Sun and Moon; Description of—History of Anahuac—Peopling of the Continent of America—Origin of these pyramidal Monuments—Time and Manner in which Men and Animals reached the American Continent—Entry into the House of the Moon—Terra cotta Heads and obsidian Knives—The Fainting Stone—Tecama—Zumpango—Huehuetoca—The Desague Real—Guautitlan—Tanepantla—Return to the Capital133

Letter VIII.—The Opera at Mexico—Bullfights—The Desierto—Scenery of the Valley of Mexico—Departure for the Coast—Tlalpam—Route of the Cruz del Marques—Cuernavaca—Visit to the Teocalli of Xochicalco—The House of Flowers—Yantipec—Cuautla Amilpas—Disagreeable Adventure—Zacualpam Amilpas—Base of Popocatepetl—San Mateo—Atlisco—Cholula167

Letter IX.—Cholula—The Great Pyramid—Quetzalcoatl—La Puebla—The English dray Horses—Route to Vera Cruz—The Pinal—Ojo de Agua—Orizava—Perote—Las Vigas—The Cofre de Perote and its Lavas—The Alps and the Cordillera—Jalapa—The Litter—Puente del Rey—Vera Cruz—The Roadstead—Sail from New Spain—The Vomito Prieto—Conclusion203